Bordeaux Embraces No and Low Alcohol Wines Amid Changing Consumer Preferences

The IWSR forecasts a 4% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) for no and low alcohol beverage volumes by 2028, with a 7% volume CAGR specifically for no-alcohol products across ten key markets. As consumer demand shifts towards lighter wines, alcohol levels in wines are increasing due to advancements in viticulture, winemaking, and climate change. Familia Torres, in collaboration with Bev Zero, is investing nearly €6 million in a new de-alcoholized wine facility in Penedès over the next two years for its Natureo range. This brand, one of the earliest low-alcohol options, anticipates a 20% value growth this year.

In Bordeaux, producers are eyeing this market as Gen Z and Millennials are buying less wine than previous generations. There are two main types of no-alcohol wine: those with alcohol removed and those that never contained alcohol. Some argue that neither qualifies as wine, traditionally defined as an alcoholic beverage made from grape juice. The primary methods for removing alcohol are vacuum distillation using spinning cones and reverse osmosis membrane filtering. Both techniques aim to preserve aromas while removing alcohol, though they are costly and not perfect.

A different approach, not yet adopted in Bordeaux, involves using non-saccharomyces yeasts and bacteria to create Levin, a product similar to grape-based kombucha. This method claims a reduced carbon footprint, appealing to organic or sustainable producers. Alternatively, wines from cooler climates and lower sugar grape varieties offer a low-alcohol option.

No and low alcohol beer has a head start, as it requires less alcohol removal, reducing the risk of imbalance. Wine is more challenging; removing alcohol can affect mouthfeel, making it taste watery. Alcohol is often replaced with sugar or grape must, which can counteract health benefits. Without alcohol, tannins can become more pronounced, though wines with lower tannins and more fruit could address this issue. Lower tannins mean less aging potential, but these wines are not typically intended for cellaring.

In Bordeaux, many producers, from small operations to large cooperatives, are experimenting with no and low alcohol wines. These wines fall outside Bordeaux AOC rules but can be sold as Vin de France, which only indicates the country of origin. Labels often include sell-by or best-before dates, as alcohol acts as a preservative.

Coralie de Bouard, from Château Clos de Bouard, claims to have made the first Bordeaux alcohol-free wine. Her red Prince Oscar is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. After fermentation and barrel aging, the wine is sent to Germany for de-alcoholization. She also offers Eden, a white Sauvignon Blanc, in the 0% range. These wines retail around €25 a bottle.

Château Lamartine in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux launched the Plaisir Anais range in 2024, using vacuum distillation to reduce their carbon footprint. Maison Heritage in Puisseguin Saint Emilion also produces 0% wine as part of their sustainable development efforts.

Laurent David of Château Edmus, a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, embraces innovation with his Zero wine, using reverse osmosis to reduce alcohol to 0.2%. Château Sauman in Côtes de Bourg offers a de-alcoholized Merlot/Cabernet blend, originally intended for a retirement home.

The Raguenot family produces a range of de-alcoholized wines at Château Haut Beyzac and Château des Tourtes, using vacuum distillation without artificial additives. Laurent and David Siozard offer zero alcohol wines from Chateau Claouset in Entre Deux Mers, focusing on organic production.

On the left bank, Vignobles Meyre offers Oh là là, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, maintaining the Médoc's fruit-driven signature. Les Grands Chais de France, Europe's largest wine producer, offers NOZECO, a popular no and low sparkling wine.

Cooperatives like Bordeaux Families and Les Vignerons de Tutiac are investing in de-alcoholization technology. Bordeaux Families produces a range of no/low alcohol wines, while Les Vignerons de Tutiac offers Moon white and Rosé.

Some producers, like Château Lestrille and Château Bonnet, opt for non-fermented grape juice as a no-alcohol alternative. These products are made from estate grapes and offer a more environmentally friendly option.

While some producers criticize dealcoholization for being costly and inefficient, others see it as a way to reach new markets. The innovation is largely driven by small producers committed to sustainable practices. No and low alcohol wines may serve as a gateway to new markets, appealing to non-traditional drinkers and offering alternatives to existing customers. For now, moderation remains a popular choice, with sparkling grape juice as a non-alcoholic option.