Burgundy charity auction raises over $24 million

The 163rd edition of the Hospices de Beaune charity auction, a prestigious annual event in the Burgundy region, concluded with an impressive outcome, garnering a total of 23.279.800 euros (approximately $24.765 million). Held on November 19, 2023, in the heart of Burgundy, this year's auction, co-hosted by Sotheby's, demonstrated the ongoing strength and prestige of the event, even though it fell short of surpassing last year's record of 29.788.500 euros (about $31.69 million).

The auction's focus was on the nascent 2023 Burgundy harvest, which stood out for its high participation levels but also showed signs of caution in the prices achieved. The average price per barrel was 30.839 euros (around $32,791), lower than last year's record of 35.974 euros per barrel. Jasper Morris MW, a renowned Burgundy wine expert and consultant for the auction, interpreted this trend as an indication of market prudence, suggesting that prices in Burgundy should not continue to escalate indefinitely.

A total of 753 barrels were sold, comprising 574 lots of red wine and 179 of white wine. This reflects a generous 2023 harvest but does not reach the quantity of lots auctioned last year (802) or the 828 barrels offered in 2018. The 51 cuvées auctioned, including village wines, premiers, and grands crus, originate from the 60 hectares of Hospices' vineyards, which are in their third and final year of conversion to organic farming.

A highlight of each Hospices de Beaune auction is the sale of the Pièce des Présidents, a charity barrel. This year, the Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru barrel, crafted from a 200-year-old oak tree that also provided wood for the restoration of Notre Dame Cathedral's spire in Paris, was sold for 350,000 euros (approximately $371,500). However, this price was considered disappointing by both Morris and Sylvain Naulin, director of the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB).

The funds raised from the sale are allocated to two entities dedicated to research for improving life expectancy and quality: the Fondation pour la Recherche Médicale (FRM) and the Initiative de Recherche pour une Longévité en Bonne Santé (IRLB). This year, French actor Thierry Lhermitte and physician and TV presenter Michal Cymes joined the organizers to represent this special cause.

Regarding the 2023 harvest, early indications suggest that it has been more challenging compared to the acclaimed 2022 harvest. Ludivine Griveau, director of the Hospices' winery, noted that despite generous yields, a significant amount of Pinot Noir grapes had to be discarded, both in the vineyard and on the sorting tables. Variable conditions before the harvest, including mildew and oidium, presented challenges, though a heatwave in September aided some grapes in reaching optimal maturity.

Michael Apstein, a Burgundy wine expert, observed that the rigorous selection of Pinot Noir in the vineyards paid off, noting that while the 2023 wines are less immediately accessible than those of 2022, they displayed a more notable tannic structure, enchanting aromas, and a purity of ripe fruit. For Chardonnay, 2023 was a "easier" year with almost as high natural yields as last year, though low acidity in some cuvées was a concern for several tasters before the auction.

The 2023 Hospices de Beaune auction not only showcased the quality and diversity of Burgundy wines but also served as a barometer of the market and a significant event for both the wine community and charitable causes. Despite some uncertainties and challenges, this year's auction once again demonstrated the resilience and enduring appeal of Burgundy's wine world.