French wine regions Cahors and Crozes-Hermitage see generational revival and focus on quality

In the French wine regions of Cahors and Crozes-Hermitage, a quiet transformation has been underway for several decades. Despite their differences in geography and grape varieties, both appellations are experiencing a qualitative revival led by two successive generations of committed winemakers. This movement began in Crozes-Hermitage during the 1980s, when the region’s production was dominated by three main players: the Cave de Tain cooperative, several major négociant-producers such as Delas, Chapoutier, and Jaboulet, and a handful of independent wineries.

Yann Chave, a winemaker and co-president of the Crozes-Hermitage AOC, recalls that the drive for higher quality came from pioneering figures like Laurent Combier and Alain Graillot. These winemakers established a distinctive style and traveled extensively across France, England, and Belgium to promote their wines. By the late 1980s, the region began shifting toward more demanding viticulture practices, including a gradual embrace of organic farming. This collective effort to protect local wildlife and flora took time but eventually paid off. Today, Crozes-Hermitage counts 78 independent wineries compared to just 25 forty years ago. Collaboration between independents and cooperatives continues to shape the region’s identity.

Cahors experienced its own awakening slightly later. According to Sébastien Sigaud, president of the Cahors AOC, the region transitioned from being home to grape growers thirty years ago to being driven by winemakers today. The turning point came in the early 2000s with individuals like Fabien Jouves and Sophie and Julien Ilbert. They introduced fresher styles while remaining rooted in tradition. Their willingness to cooperate and share knowledge has made them leaders in Cahors’ renewal, says Sébastien Bernède, vice-president of the Cahors wine syndicate and winemaker at Clos La Coutale.

A new generation has since emerged in both regions. In Crozes-Hermitage, between 2015 and 2020, young winemakers such as Daphné Chave, David Combier, and Raphaël Faugier returned to their family estates after gaining experience in countries like Argentina, South Africa, and Australia. Together they formed “La Nouvelle Garde,” a collective of 55 members that includes independents, cooperators, and négociants. David Combier explains that their goal is to unite their generation’s energy without dogmatism and prepare for the future of the appellation. Daphné Chave emphasizes that they want to include all young people in the region while respecting the work of previous generations.

In Cahors as well, youth are taking charge. Bernède notes that in about 70 percent of estates, a younger family member has returned—even at some of the most traditional properties. Winemakers like Maya Sallée and Nicolas Fernandez, Juliette Baldès, Johan Vidal, Jules Verhaeghe, and Mathilde Fournié are developing personal projects that reflect contemporary values and environmental concerns. They meet regularly to discuss issues such as climate change and quality improvement. For them, sincerity and environmental stewardship are top priorities.

Both appellations have seen their wine styles evolve significantly. Where once power was prized—wines were robust and extracted—today there is a focus on finesse. Crozes-Hermitage now highlights its diverse terroirs from north to south; Cahors celebrates contrasts between its plateaus and valleys. Yann Chave explains that producers now seek balance rather than sheer ripeness: less extraction during fermentation, more use of whole grape clusters, gentler aging methods. Climate change has forced further adaptation; young winemakers returning from abroad bring new ideas for coping with warming temperatures.

In Cahors, similar changes are underway. Pierre Baltenweck of Clos Dauliac says yields are being reduced intentionally while plantings become denser to improve quality. The aim is for wines with greater freshness and authenticity. Sigaud adds that producers are moving away from a Bordeaux-inspired style toward something more elegant. Achieving silky tannins is now central; a detailed climate map of local soils helps guide vineyard practices so vines are treated intelligently rather than stressed.

The Malbec grape’s strength lies in its ability to deliver complex secondary aromas reminiscent of Pinot Noir or Syrah when handled carefully. Bernède agrees that allowing wines to express themselves naturally reveals these qualities—and notes that it is no coincidence Cahors is often compared to Crozes-Hermitage today.

Both regions have overcome indifference from broader markets by focusing on quality and perseverance. Crozes-Hermitage paved the way for this transformation; Cahors is now following suit with determination. The result is a new era for both appellations—one defined by collaboration across generations and a shared commitment to producing wines that reflect their unique origins with clarity and finesse.