Extreme Terroir: The Rise of Arctic Circle Vineyards

The Arctic is warming nearly four times faster than the rest of the world — temperatures have increased here by 0.73C per decade, compared to 0.19C per decade for everywhere else. This rapid warming has led to the rise of vineyards near the arctic circle, particularly in Nordic countries. The Olkiluoto power plant in Finland is a prime example. It's home to the northernmost vineyard in the world and produces over 800 kilograms of ripe Zilga grapes every year. Elsewhere in Finland and Sweden, other innovative vineyards are also flourishing, and many of them opt to grow Solaris grapes, Sweden's national grape variety.

Château Olkiluoto: nuclear-powered wine

At 61 degrees latitude, Finland's Olkiluoto nuclear power plant is the last place you'd expect to find a vineyard. Yet, that's exactly what you'll discover at Château Olkiluoto, an experimental project born out of a government research effort to reuse excess heat from the plant. The goal is to grow Zilga, a hardy Latvian grape variety well-suited for red wine. The waste water from the reactors is channeled under the vineyard in plastic pipes, which then heats the ground to prevent frost. This unique set-up has reportedly yielded a recent harvest of around 800 kilograms of grapes, and these were used to produce hundreds of bottles of wine. But, there is a downside: this wine isn't commercially available. It's instead enjoyed by the power plant employees themselves, who apparently say it's quite smooth.

Arilds Vingård — the largest vineyard in Sweden

Sweden is another nordic country embracing winemaking now made possible by the warmer weather. The country's largest vineyard, Arilds Vingård, grows around twenty hectares of grapes, including Pinot Noir, Muscaris, Cabernet Cortis, Souvenir Gris, and Pinot Noir Precocé. On top of that, an extra twelve hectares of Solaris grapes are now in production, and another eight also planted. Arilds, located in north-west Skåne, is a sustainable winery that uses organic plant protection to create healthier wines, as well as protect the environment. Notably, they use Baby Doll Sheep as a form of weed control. These adorable mini-sheep eat weeds and overgrowth, but aren't tall enough to reach the grapes themselves, so it's the perfect natural way to keep the vineyard tidy.

Sweden's national grape

Solaris is often called Sweden's "national grape", and for good reason — it's largely the preferred variety for vineyards across the country, which collectively cover around 150 hectares in total. Although Solaris grapes were initially created in 1975 in Germany, they grow best in Sweden's colder climate and produce exceptional and highly-acidic white wines. Solaris wines are generally very fresh and crisp, similar to classic Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand. The rule of thumb with Solaris wines is to drink them young. However, like other white wines, they can still be enjoyed after a year or two if stored properly and left unopened.

Finland's answer to Bordeaux

Over in Finland, on the tiny island of Nagu, part of the stunning Turku Archipelago, the Château Nagu vineyard is considered the largest vineyard in the entire country. Here, classic grape varieties including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, and Merlot are grown across 2.5 acres. Owner Herman Haapman has big plans for his business — he wants to make the Turku Archipelago as famous for wine as Bordeaux is in France, and he's certainly on the right track. In late 2023, Château Nagu made history with the production of the very first Cabernet Sauvignon vintage in the Nordic countries.

Half of the vines (including Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir) grown at Château Nagu are inside a massive 10,000m2 greenhouse complex that provides warmth over the chilly autumns and winters. All grapes, including those grown outdoors, benefit from the Finnish sun that shines for 20 hours a day during June and July. Fascinatingly, Haapman uses an ancient winemaking practice: the grapes are harvested solely during the full moon. It's thought the moon infuses the grapes and soil with its energy, and this results in truly splendid wines with full characters and rich aromas.

The rise of arctic circle vineyards will redefine wine with new flavors, characteristics, and even new varieties. From Finland to Sweden and beyond, wines made in northern climates promise to surprise and delight wine aficionados the world over.