Bordeaux Wines Retain Classic Taste with Novel Grape Varieties Amid Climate Change

A recent study has found that Bordeaux wines blended with novel grape varieties can maintain their classic taste. This research explored alternatives to traditional grapes to help winemakers adapt to climate change. Two professional juries evaluated different versions of a classic Bordeaux wine, each incorporating one of five unusual grape varieties from Southwest France, a cross from the 1950s, and a Portuguese grape. The study, published in the OENO One journal, indicated that including these novel grapes in up to 30% of the blend did not significantly impact the wines' regional character. Researchers noted that while the classical reference blend was the most typical, Bordeaux's typicity was not drastically affected by the new grapes.

The study suggests the potential introduction of these five non-native varieties into the classic Bordeaux blend. Currently, only specific grape varieties can be used in wines with appellation names. However, Bordeaux winemakers are experimenting with new grapes to adapt to climate change while preserving their wines' regional identity.

The research builds on previous studies that identified five non-Bordeaux varieties—Fer Servadou, Duras, Manseng Noir, Vinhão, and Arinarnoa—that taste similar to traditional Bordeaux grapes. These were blended into a classic Bordeaux wine at 10% and 30% proportions. The blend included classical grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. A panel of 37 professional judges tasted 11 wines, including a reference wine, followed by a second group of 20 judges with extensive Bordeaux experience. Tastings occurred at Château La Tour Carnet in St-Laurent-Médoc, which manages experimental grape plots.

The first panel found minimal change in Bordeaux typicity, except when Vinhão was included at 30%. The second jury noted that Fer Servadou and higher proportions of Manseng Noir or Vinhão reduced typicity. However, the study authors emphasized that these changes were minor. They suggested that these results could support the legal introduction of these grapes into the Bordeaux varietal mix. Arinarnoa was approved for experimental use in Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations in 2021.