2025-01-07
Belgium, a country historically renowned for its beer, is making significant strides in wine production, particularly with sparkling wines. This unexpected development has surprised both experts and consumers, placing Belgium on the global wine map. The turning point came in 2019, when the Crémant de Wallonie from the Chant d'Éole vineyard won a gold medal at an international wine competition, outshining renowned French champagnes. This achievement marked the beginning of growing international interest in Belgian wines, a sector that had previously gone unnoticed.
Marc Declerck, director of the Gault&Millau guide in Belgium, highlights the remarkable quality of the country's sparkling wines, a feat unimaginable a few decades ago. Belgium's climate was traditionally considered unsuitable for viticulture. However, climate change has gradually shifted the boundaries of winemaking, making northern European regions more viable for vineyards. Warmer temperatures have allowed Belgian winemakers to produce high-quality wines, particularly sparkling varieties.
Studies confirm this trend. According to a French report, regions north of the 46th parallel — such as Bern, Sölden, and Poitiers — are now suitable for grape cultivation due to rising temperatures. This climatic shift has enabled countries like Belgium and northern Germany to grow grape varieties previously thought to require warmer southern climates.
In Germany, similar climatic changes have also benefited winemakers. The German Wine Institute (DWI) reports that rising temperatures during grape ripening have led to better maturity levels, improving the quality of red wines. This has allowed German producers to successfully cultivate varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, traditionally associated with Mediterranean climates.
Despite these benefits, climate change poses serious risks for vineyards. Extreme weather events — including hailstorms, late frosts, heavy rains, and heatwaves — are increasingly affecting crops. In response, winemakers are adopting various strategies, such as relocating vineyards to higher altitudes, selecting more heat-resistant grape varieties, and using techniques to protect grapes from excessive sun exposure.
While northern regions are benefiting from warmer temperatures, southern European vineyards face more severe challenges. Historic wine regions in Spain, Italy, and southern France are experiencing reduced cultivation areas due to prolonged droughts and water stress. In Spain, harvests are becoming increasingly scarce, while Italian producers are grappling with adverse weather conditions. French winemakers have also faced a combination of spring frosts, heatwaves, and torrential rains, significantly impacting their harvests.
Belgian winemakers have noted similar challenges, albeit to a lesser extent. Jelle Steel, from the Entre Deux Monts vineyard in West Flanders, reports that weather conditions are becoming more unpredictable, requiring greater vineyard management. Still, he acknowledges that climate change has largely benefited Belgium's wine industry, facilitating its development.
The Belgian wine sector reached a record production level in 2023, according to the country's Ministry of Economy. Vineyard areas have expanded, and the number of producers has grown. Coastal regions, in particular, benefit from proximity to the sea, with the maritime breeze providing a refreshing influence on the grapes, enhancing the wine's character.
Sparkling wine has become Belgium's specialty. According to Declerck, nearly half of Belgian wine production consists of sparkling wines, with white wines accounting for 35% and the remainder divided between red and rosé varieties. Steel notes that sparkling wines pair particularly well with traditional Belgian dishes like fries. He recommends a crisp white or a sparkling wine as an ideal match for this iconic dish.
A key factor in the success of Belgian wines is the country's soil composition. In southern Belgium, vineyards sit atop limestone formations that extend into France's Champagne region. This type of soil retains water during wet winters and releases it during dry summers, ensuring consistent moisture levels for the vines. Amélie Wuillaume, spokesperson for the Chant d'Éole vineyard, emphasizes that this geological feature is crucial for producing their award-winning Crémant de Wallonie.
Despite Belgium's progress, French producers do not perceive their northern neighbors as a threat. Declerck believes that wine enthusiasts will continue to appreciate the renowned champagnes of France. However, he sees Belgian wines as a complementary option, offering something new and distinctive to the market.
Over the past two decades, Belgian wine quality has improved significantly. In recognition of this progress, Gault&Millau released the second edition of its Belgian wine guide in June 2023, further solidifying Belgium's position as a growing player in the European wine scene.
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