Beyond organic: What is a natural wine?

The secrets behind the rising demand for 'natural' in a world of conventional wines

Robert Beir

2023-08-17

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The rich tapestry of the wine world is as diverse as it is captivating. Spanning centuries, humans have endeavored to perfect this cherished liquid, primarily derived from grape fermentation. This drink has witnessed and accompanied entire civilizations through their most pivotal moments. Within this vast universe, 'natural wine' has emerged, promising a return to the traditional roots of winemaking. But what exactly constitutes a natural wine?

It's crucial to initiate this discussion with the understanding that the term "natural" in relation to wine remains unregulated, unlike its 'organic' counterparts. This lack of formal oversight can potentially unsettle conventional wine producers, leading them to question: If one wine boasts the "natural" label—freely, at that—does it imply that others are not?

Natural wine, occasionally termed 'non-intervention wine,' is renowned for its minimal human or technological intervention during its production process. This entails a restricted use of chemical agents, both in grape cultivation and the vinification process within wineries. Thus, one would not find herbicides, pesticides, or other chemical deterrents in the vineyards, nor sulfites and other additives in the winery. Moreover, the addition of commercial yeasts is avoided, allowing fermentation to transpire naturally, courtesy of indigenous or "wild" yeasts present on the grapes. This organic method of spontaneous fermentation harks back to the ancient ways of winemaking.

Often, natural wines bypass the filtration process and, in certain instances, even barrel aging—all in pursuit of preserving the authentic taste. Many natural winemakers ardently uphold the philosophy, "Nothing added, nothing taken away."

Proponents of natural wine contend that its minimalistic approach enables the wine to mirror the terroir more faithfully—that is, the unique attributes of the region where the grape was cultivated. Consequently, one savors a product truly emblematic of its origin.

Despite "natural" evoking notions of purity and authenticity, it's pivotal not to conflate natural wines with other types, such as organic or biodynamic wines. While the latter categories also advocate for eco-friendly production, they don't necessarily adhere to the stringent practices of minimal intervention that typify natural wines.

And the palate experience? Reds are generally light and refreshing—a vin de soif as described by the French. Whites tend to be fresh, with a dominant citrus profile. However, some natural white wines bear apple undertones and fine effervescence, drawing comparisons to cider wines. Occasionally, both reds and whites might necessitate decanting or oxygenation to temper initial aromas that could be off-putting. Yet, for those attuned to their distinctive flavors, conventional wines may appear overwhelmingly "uniform."

Interestingly, natural wines often register a lower alcoholic content than conventional ones. This can be attributed partly to indigenous yeasts' inefficiency in alcohol production and partly to early harvesting practices, as natural wines are seldom left on the vine until overripe.

Two primary styles characterize the natural wine movement: the pet nat or pétillant naturel, also termed ancestral wines —a light, refreshing sparkling variant where fermentation starts in the vat but concludes in the bottle, retaining some carbon dioxide; and the orange wine, essentially white wines processed as reds, involving must maceration with skins.

One significant challenge confronting natural wines is their higher cost. Predominantly, small-scale producers handcraft them, overseeing the entire journey from vine to bottle.

Like any trend, natural wine isn't without its critics. Some argue that the non-interventionist approach can yield wines with evident flaws or a shorter shelf life. Nonetheless, enthusiasts maintain that the tasting experience offered by natural wines is unparalleled and singular.

Even though natural wines presently occupy a niche in the global market, more wineries are venturing into their production, eager to probe new enological horizons. Time will determine if this is a fleeting trend or a mainstay, but for now, natural wine continues to furnish a unique experience for those willing to delve into its depths.

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