2025-11-20

At a recent joint press conference in Beaune, leaders of the Burgundy wine sector addressed growing concerns about the future of their industry. Laurent Delaunay and François Labet, co-presidents of the Interprofession des vins de Bourgogne, spoke on behalf of both the Hospices de Beaune and the Comité Bourgogne. They described a sector under pressure from falling consumption, regulatory challenges, and climate change.
The event took place during the annual “Vente des Vins” wine auction, a key moment for Burgundy producers. The co-presidents highlighted that wine sales in France are declining, a trend that is also affecting exports. Despite Burgundy’s reputation as a symbol of French culture and economic strength, producers are facing a complex environment. The leaders pointed to international instability and changing weather patterns as additional factors making production more difficult.
Delaunay and Labet criticized what they see as an increasing stigmatization of wine. They referred to recent public health campaigns that describe wine as a “chemical and toxic cocktail” or use slogans like “Your glass is never innocent.” According to them, these messages mislead consumers and undermine responsible drinking. They also expressed frustration at being labeled as “dealers,” arguing that such language is unfair to professionals who promote moderation.
The sector is also dealing with new regulations that many producers consider excessive. Recent proposals include higher taxes on wine, bans on sales in certain public spaces such as the bar at the National Assembly, and restrictions on reimbursing wine expenses for parliamentary functions. Producers say these measures do not reflect the reality of their work or the cultural importance of wine in France.
Another point of contention is the ban on some agricultural treatments, including those used in organic farming. Industry representatives cited a recent study that found no health risks for local residents from these products, yet restrictions remain in place. This situation, they argue, creates confusion both within France and abroad, where Burgundy wines are often seen as a benchmark for quality.
The 2025 harvest is expected to be smaller than average, with an estimated 1.43 million hectoliters—about 190 million bottles—produced. Stocks are lower than last year but still 7% above the five-year average. The previous season saw reduced yields and worsening economic conditions for many producers.
Export data shows mixed results. In the first eight months of 2025, Burgundy exports rose by 4.3% compared to 2024, but growth slowed in recent months. In French supermarkets, white wines are performing better than reds, with slight increases in both volume and value since January. However, overall sales remain stagnant.
Internationally, Burgundy’s main markets are shifting. The United States remains the top destination for Burgundy wines, accounting for over 22% of both volume and value in 2024. Canada holds third place with 8.4% of volume and 4.8% of value. Sweden has now entered the top five export markets, replacing Japan. Other countries like Brazil and India are showing growth but still represent smaller shares.
Despite a record fifteen-year high in exports during the first quarter of 2025—22 million bottles shipped—there was a slight decline between June and August: down 0.4% in volume and 6.2% in value.
Throughout the press conference, industry leaders repeated their message: wine is not dangerous when consumed responsibly, and professionals should not be treated as criminals. They called for more balanced communication about wine’s role in French society and urged policymakers to consider the realities faced by producers.
The Burgundy wine sector faces what its representatives describe as an unusually complex period. With climate change affecting harvests, domestic consumption falling, and new regulations adding uncertainty, producers say they need support rather than stigma as they navigate these challenges at home and abroad.
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