2026-08-12

CORTE FRANCA, Italy — In the vineyards of Franciacorta, one of Italy’s leading sparkling wine regions, harvest crews have begun cutting grapes before dawn and working under floodlights after a stretch of intense heat pushed fruit to maturity earlier than producers expected.
At Berlucchi, the historic estate in Corte Franca that helped establish Franciacorta’s reputation for bottle-fermented sparkling wine, harvesting started on Aug. 2, about 10 days earlier than in 2025 and roughly a month earlier than it would have begun three decades ago. The fruit now coming in is mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Nero for sparkling wines, where timing is critical because growers need freshness and acidity more than high sugar levels.
The earlier start has forced a fast reorganization of labor, transport, pressing and cooling. For sparkling wine producers, a delay of even a few days can alter the style of the base wine and reduce the acidity needed for balance and long aging.
“These are delicate, frantic moments, and everything has to work perfectly,” Arturo Ziliani, Berlucchi’s chief executive, said. He said the estate had not expected such an early harvest or such a rapid acceleration in ripening.
The change came quickly. Even late in July, Berlucchi had been aiming to begin around Aug. 10. Then Pinot Nero, used in blends and rosé sparkling wines, showed rising sugar levels that signaled it was ready. Within two days, workers were called in and the presses were prepared.
Weeks of high temperatures, often between 99 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit, along with lower than normal rainfall, pushed the fruit forward. Producers and wine experts in the region said a mild winter also played a role by bringing an earlier budbreak. Hailstorms in some vineyards reduced part of the crop, which can leave remaining grapes to ripen faster.
The result is a narrower decision window in the vineyard. Producers must judge not only whether the fruit is healthy, but whether it has the exact balance required for sparkling wine. That balance is more demanding than for many still wines.
“The grapes are perfectly healthy,” Ferdinando Dell’Aquila, Berlucchi’s technical director and an enologist, said. “We just have to work as quickly as possible, harvest them and preserve their acidity.”
That need has changed the daily routine. Regional labor rules require an afternoon pause between 12:30 p.m. and 4 p.m. because of the heat, but Berlucchi said the conditions have been so severe that the afternoon shift has often become impractical. Last week, crews started at 4 a.m., picking in darkness under artificial light to get grapes out of the field and into the winery before the fruit became too warm.
In sparkling wine production, temperature matters from the moment grapes are cut. Once brought to the cellar, the fruit must be cooled and then pressed gently, usually in stainless steel presses, to obtain the highest quality free-run juice. The first extraction is especially important in traditional-method sparkling wine, where finesse and acid structure are essential.
Berlucchi said it can carry out as many as 24 pressings a day during harvest, with work often continuing late into the night. The estate typically produces about 4 million bottles a year, making it the largest producer in Franciacorta and accounting for about 20% of the region’s roughly 20 million bottles of annual output. Around 90% of its bottles are sold in Italy, with the rest exported to markets including Germany, Switzerland, the United States and Japan.
The pressure on timing is especially high in Franciacorta because the region’s wines are made in the same traditional style used for Champagne, with secondary fermentation taking place in the bottle. That method demands base wines with high fixed acidity, relatively low pH and moderate sugar levels. If grapes remain on the vine too long in hot weather, sugar can climb quickly while acidity drops.
Attilio Scienza, professor emeritus at the University of Milan and one of Italy’s best-known viticulture scholars, said early-ripening varieties such as Chardonnay now require very close observation. In hot conditions, he said, a delay of only a few days can make grapes unsuitable for sparkling wine production.
The earlier start in Franciacorta is part of a broader pattern across Italy’s 2026 harvest. Sicily began harvesting some grapes for still wines in late July. Parts of Tuscany have also started picking, and growers in sparkling wine areas have been moving quickly as temperatures remain elevated.
Paolo Castelletti, secretary general of the Italian Wine Union, said climate change and persistent hot weather systems over Europe are forcing growers to adapt not only in Italy but also in wine regions in France and Germany. The old harvest calendar, once more stable from year to year, is becoming less reliable.
For wineries, that means earlier vineyard monitoring, faster staffing decisions and more flexibility in cellar operations. It also means more use of night and predawn work, especially in warm years, to protect fruit quality.
In Franciacorta, the changes are visible in small details as much as in the calendar. Workers now move through the rows with towels wrapped around their heads against the sun. Tractors shuttle small crates to the winery as quickly as possible. Press schedules run deeper into the evening. Cooling becomes part of the harvest plan, not an exception.
Ziliani said the challenge is not simply bringing grapes in early, but doing so without losing the precision required for top sparkling wine. Each parcel can ripen at a different speed, and each decision has to be made faster than it once was.
Growers in the region say the trend does not automatically mean lower quality, but it does leave less margin for error. For wines built on freshness, the moment of picking has become one of the most sensitive steps of the year, and in 2026 that moment arrived sooner than expected.