Wine’s Long History of Reinvention in Times of Crisis

In recent years, the wine industry has faced a period of significant change that is visible not only in market data but also in the landscapes of traditional wine regions. Across Europe, especially in areas with a long history of viticulture, vineyards are being uprooted. Land that once represented generations of agricultural and cultural identity is now at risk of being converted to other uses or simply abandoned. This shift is driven by a combination of declining wine consumption, increasing regulations on alcohol, volatile global markets, and the growing impact of climate change. These factors are converging to push the wine sector into a phase of deep reorganization.

This sense of vulnerability is not new for wine. Throughout history, the industry has repeatedly adapted to survive crises. The causes and locations may change, but the underlying pattern remains consistent: wine endures by evolving. One of the most striking examples comes from the United States during Prohibition in the 1920s. When alcohol was banned nationwide, American wineries suddenly found themselves unable to sell their product legally. California, which had invested heavily in vineyards, was left with an abundance of grapes but no legal market for wine.

Rather than disappear, wine found a way to adapt. Producers began selling "wine bricks," solid blocks of concentrated grape must marketed as food products. The most famous brand was Vine-Glo. These bricks were sold openly in stores and came with detailed instructions on what not to do—such as not dissolving them in water and not storing them in a warm place for several weeks—effectively providing a guide for home winemaking without breaking the law outright. This workaround allowed people to continue making and consuming wine privately, shifting production from commercial wineries to countless domestic spaces across the country.

The wine brick era did not represent an act of defiance against the state but rather an intelligent adaptation within the boundaries of the law. The economic value remained tied to traditional wine regions, and consumption continued even if it took on new forms. When Prohibition ended, wine bricks quickly disappeared as legal production resumed and the industry returned to its familiar patterns.

Today’s challenges are different but share some similarities with those faced during Prohibition. There is no outright ban on alcohol, but there is mounting pressure from health concerns, cultural shifts, economic instability, and environmental threats. The risk facing wine now is not so much extinction as it is stagnation—the inability or unwillingness to adapt to changing circumstances.

One response has been the development of dealcoholized wines and low-alcohol products. In Italy and other countries where tradition runs deep, these innovations have sparked debate about whether they represent a break from or a continuation of winemaking heritage. However, history suggests that such changes are part of a long tradition of adaptation. Just as wine bricks allowed the industry to survive Prohibition by changing form, today’s dealcoholized wines reflect an effort to meet new demands while preserving core aspects of viticulture.

Wine has always been more than just a beverage; it is a complex system shaped by nature, economics, and politics. When one element shifts—whether due to law, culture, or climate—the entire system must adjust. The lesson from history is clear: survival depends on flexibility and creativity rather than rigid adherence to past forms.

Looking back at the era of wine bricks serves as a reminder that even when the future seems uncertain, innovation can provide new paths forward. The current wave of experimentation with dealcoholized wines and alternative products should be seen not as a rejection of tradition but as another chapter in wine’s ongoing story of resilience and reinvention. As global pressures continue to reshape agriculture and consumption habits, the ability to adapt will remain essential for the survival of this ancient industry.