Is Clairette de Die About to Die?

Traditional French wine loses ground to Italian rival Prosecco

2024-12-23

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Clairette de Die AOC, the emblematic natural sparkling wine from the Drôme region of France, is facing significant challenges due to the rising popularity of Italian Prosecco. This trend has forced producers to consider drastic measures, including uprooting some of their vineyards. With a protected designation of origin since 1942, Clairette de Die spans approximately 1,600 hectares, primarily located around the Vercors massif at altitudes ranging from 200 to 700 meters. Traditionally positioned as an affordable choice for celebrations such as Christmas or New Year's, with an average price of ten euros per bottle, it has seen a sharp decline in consumption in recent years.

Local winemakers explain that the wine's traditional customer base is aging, while younger generations show little interest. This shift has resulted in a surplus of unsold bottles, with sales failing to keep pace with production. Although natural sparkling wines are growing in popularity, particularly driven by Prosecco and cocktails like the Spritz, Clairette de Die has not capitalized on this trend. Its international reach is also limited, with only 15% of sales going to foreign markets, leaving it at a disadvantage compared to better-known competitors.

In response, the Clairette de Die producers' union has proposed a 20% reduction in production, equating to the removal of about 300 hectares of vineyards. Franck Monge, mayor of Vercheny and a producer himself, expressed concern over the potential regional impact. He explained that the area's mountainous and infertile land offers few viable agricultural alternatives, meaning the disappearance of vineyards could destabilize the local economy. "One hectare of vineyard equals one job," Monge emphasized, urging for production to be maintained to prevent a regional crisis.

To address the situation, the Ministry of Agriculture has approved a subsidy of 4,000 euros per uprooted hectare. Fabien Lombard, president of the producers' union and a winemaker in Suze, plans to remove two of his 17 hectares, focusing on older or less manageable plots. According to Lombard, this step is a necessary correction to an over-expansion of vineyards in recent years, as wine consumption has stagnated since 2018.

Despite the challenges, some producers are exploring strategies to boost sales. Guillaume de Laforcade, general manager of Jaillance, the largest producer of Clairette de Die, stressed the importance of aligning production with demand to avoid overstocking. With 8.5 million bottles produced annually and 210 associated growers, the company is targeting new markets, particularly bars and restaurants, while launching innovative holiday campaigns featuring special cuvées, free shipping, and gift cards.

Meanwhile, the Clairette producers' union is working to enhance the wine's reputation through targeted communication strategies. Lombard highlighted that Clairette de Die is a local, affordable wine produced under controlled conditions, contrasting it with Prosecco, whose production practices are sometimes less transparent. Marketing efforts, he noted, will be essential to reignite consumer interest.

Through these initiatives, Clairette de Die producers aim not only to halt the decline in sales but also to secure the future of a wine deeply rooted in the history and economy of its region.

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