Tannins: the tale of red wine's mysterious sensation

The art of winemaking is as rich and nuanced as the flavors and sensations we experience when sipping a glass of red wine. Often, connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike make use of technical jargon, sometimes leading to confusion among casual drinkers. A perfect example of this is the term "astringency." Here, we dive deep into what astringency truly means, how it's connected to tannins, and why balance is paramount in wine production.

Astringency is not a taste akin to sweetness, saltiness, acidity, or bitterness. Rather, it's a sensation. Many mistakenly equate it with a bitter flavor profile, but the two are distinct. Astringency can best be described as the dry and rough sensation perceived on the epithelial cells of our mouths, predominantly caused by substances like tannins.

Tannins: Nature's Role in Wine Texture

So, what are these tannins? Tannins are naturally occurring polyphenols present in grape skins, seeds, and stems. In red wines that ferment with grape skins, tannins from these parts contribute to the wine's texture and, by extension, its astringency. But that's not the only source of tannins in wine. Winemakers also introduce tannins through enological additives, and wines aged in oak barrels incorporate tannins from the wood.

Astringency in Context

Despite the presence of tannins, measuring the perception of astringency remains complex. To provide clarity, the American Society of Tasting and Materials describes astringency as "a complex sensation of dryness and roughness in the epithelium caused by exposure to substances like tannin." But, as is often the case, many turn to resources like Wikipedia for straightforward explanations. Here, astringency is attributed to the interaction between wine tannins and salivary proteins, resulting in the formation of supramolecular complexes that reduce saliva's lubrication. The outcome? A heightened sense of dryness.

For those seeking a simpler understanding, think of it this way: the more intense a wine's tannin content, the drier and rougher it will feel on the palate. Wines with moderate or low tannin levels offer smoother and less intense sensations.

Striking the Perfect Balance

Every wine enthusiast has personal preferences. Some believe that intense wines are superior, while others view excessive astringency as a negative attribute. Emile Peynaud, a renowned French oenologist and researcher, once said that "harmony, balance, and elegance of astringency are signs of great red wines."

The organoleptic balance of wine is pivotal. This equilibrium is influenced by the harmony between tannic components and acidity, counterbalanced by sweet components like ethanol, sugar, and polysaccharides. An imbalance in favor of tannic components results in wines that can taste overly bitter, astringent, and dry. Conversely, an overemphasis on sweet elements leads to overly sugary, syrupy wines.

Factors and Perception

What then influences our perception of astringency? Primarily, it's the concentration and structure of tannins. Higher polymerization levels of tannins amplify astringency, whereas combinations of tannins with anthocyanins and the presence of polysaccharides mitigate it.

The Challenges of Measurement

Assessing astringency often involves expert tasting panels, though it's worth noting that repetitive tastings can lead to palate fatigue and biased results. Moreover, astringency perception varies from person to person, much like individual thresholds for taste.

Wine, like art, is subjective, and what feels astringent to one might seem smooth to another. The journey of understanding wine's intricacies, like astringency, is as rewarding as the drink itself.