Ancient Clay Amphorae Revive 2,000-Year-Old Winemaking in Portugal’s Bairrada Region

In the heart of Portugal’s Bairrada region, a small family-run winery is reviving an ancient winemaking tradition that dates back to Roman times. Adega Malápio, located in Aguada de Baixo near Águeda, has become a focal point for those interested in the history and culture of wine. The project is led by Romeu Martins, who has dedicated himself to restoring his grandfather’s legacy and the unique method of producing “vinho de talha”—wine fermented and aged in large clay amphorae.

The practice of making wine in clay pots, or talhas, is rare in Bairrada. While more common in southern Portugal, especially Alentejo, this technique has deep roots in the region’s past. At Adega Malápio, the clay vessels are lined only with beeswax and pine resin, following ancestral methods. The process involves fermenting grapes with their skins and stems for extended periods, resulting in wines with distinctive structure and complexity.

Martins works with old vineyards—some described as medieval—planted with a mix of traditional Bairrada grape varieties such as Bical, Baga, Cercial, Bastardo, Rabo de Ovelha, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Maria Gomes, Trincadeira and Bicalinho. These field blends are cultivated without herbicides and with minimal intervention both in the vineyard and the cellar. The approach is hands-on: each vine is tended individually, reflecting a philosophy that values precision viticulture and respect for the land.

The winery’s commitment to sustainability extends throughout its operations. Environmental concerns are addressed at every stage—from soil management to fermentation—and Adega Malápio is currently seeking sustainability certification. The property is also accessible to visitors with reduced mobility and welcomes pets.

Enotourism plays a central role at Adega Malápio. Visitors can tour the centenary cellar and medieval vineyard, learn about the talha winemaking process, and enjoy tastings paired with local specialties such as the renowned Leitão Assado à Bairrada (roast suckling pig). The winery collaborates with local chefs and sommeliers to create unique food and wine experiences throughout the year. Activities range from vineyard walks and jeep tours to harvest participation days and even wine meditation retreats.

Cultural programming is another focus. The winery hosts sensory experiences featuring artists from various disciplines—visual arts, music, theater and literature—connecting wine with broader expressions of regional identity. Workshops on talha winemaking are available for those interested in learning more about this ancient craft.

Adega Malápio also offers digital conveniences: through an app called youwine, customers can purchase wines directly at the winery or online for worldwide delivery. This service includes all shipping costs and customs fees upfront.

For Romeu Martins, the project is both a tribute to his grandfather Aristides and a mission to preserve Bairrada’s vinous heritage. Each bottle tells a story of family tradition, regional culture and a return to authentic winemaking practices. As interest grows in natural wines and sustainable tourism, Adega Malápio stands out as a destination where history, craftsmanship and innovation come together in every glass.