EU Now Takes 40% of Italian Wine Exports as Industry Faces Adjustment, Not Crisis

The Italian wine industry is facing a period of reflection and adjustment, but not a crisis, according to leading figures who gathered recently in Rome. Riccardo Cotarella, a renowned enologist and president of Assoenologi, opened the 2025 National Fisar Congress at the Library of the Chamber of Deputies with a message of confidence. He emphasized that the future of Italian wine depends on the industry’s ability to work together and communicate its unique value more effectively.

Cotarella noted that, despite current challenges, Italian wine has overcome even greater crises in the past. He pointed out that Italy remains the world’s largest wine producer, with unmatched biodiversity, territories, and culture. However, he warned that without strong communication, Italy risks being overtaken by countries with less history and tradition in winemaking. He called for a united effort to promote Italian wine as a symbol of the nation’s agricultural heritage.

The congress, titled “Wine as a Tool for Enhancing Made in Italy,” brought together key voices from the Italian wine sector. Participants included Michele Zanardo, president of the National Committee for Dop and Igp Wines; Roberto Donadini, national president of Fisar; Michelin-starred chef Davide Pulejo; and Giorgio Mulè, vice president of the Chamber of Deputies. The event took place at a time when the wine industry is under particular scrutiny, influenced by new U.S. tariffs and a temporary slowdown in exports.

According to data from Ismea, American importers increased their orders earlier in the year, creating a stockpiling effect that disrupted normal sales flows. Meanwhile, the European Union market now accounts for about 40% of Italy’s total wine exports, indicating that the sector remains solid despite some uncertainties.

Fisar stated that the current situation does not represent a structural crisis but rather a phase of adjustment. The organization called for clearer and more responsible communication to highlight the strategic role of wine in Italy’s image and economy.

Roberto Donadini stressed the need to move beyond local rivalries and build networks among sommelier associations. He argued that collaboration across service, education, and production is essential to promote Italy’s wine heritage and face future challenges. Donadini said that connecting dining rooms, kitchens, and local territories transforms wine into a cultural asset and a driver of growth for Italy. He also highlighted Fisar’s commitment to training knowledgeable and responsible sommeliers who can promote quality wine culture in partnership with institutions and industry groups.

Michele Zanardo pointed out that Italy has around 530 protected designations of origin and geographical indications, representing more than 500 grape varieties. He described this as an extraordinary but fragile wealth, noting that just ten denominations account for half of Italy’s wine exports. Zanardo called for joint efforts to promote lesser-known regions and ensure both economic and environmental sustainability. He reminded attendees that Italy was among the first European countries to establish a law on wine denominations in 1963, creating a model for others but one that now needs renewal.

Chef Davide Pulejo added that institutions should place greater value on the human factor, not only in wine but across all sectors. He emphasized the importance of educating young people, inspiring them to love their work, and enabling them to share their passion globally. Pulejo said that food and wine are key ambassadors for Italian culture, and that renewed growth for the country should start from these foundations.

The congress highlighted both the strengths and vulnerabilities of Italian wine, as well as the need for unity and effective communication to maintain its global standing. The discussions reflected a shared belief that Italian wine can continue to thrive if the industry works together and adapts to new challenges.