Provence winemakers unite against climate chaos

Climate change is disrupting the balance of vineyards in Provence, forcing producers to seek collective solutions to cope with increasingly extreme weather conditions. In April of last year, Pierre Michelland, a winemaker in Rians, lost his entire harvest when a severe frost swept through his vineyard. Nine months later, along with other members of the Rouge Provence association, he is finalizing the details of a special edition wine that will help other producers affected by adverse weather events.

Myrko Tépus, another winemaker who suffered significant losses at his estate in Esparron-de-Pallières in 2023 after four consecutive hailstorms, is also part of this initiative. Around thirty producers from across the region contribute a portion of their harvest every September to create "Plaisir Solidaire," a wine that blends grapes from different soils and microclimates, from the Alpilles to Nice.

At Domaine de Béates in Lambesc, the group gathers to label the 1,737 magnums of the 2023 vintage, wax the bottle necks, and prepare them for distribution. The day unfolds in a relaxed atmosphere, with background music and discussions about the label, which this year features illustrations of the faces of the 33 participating winemakers.

Pierre Michelland vividly recalls the days in April when temperatures dropped to -5.5°C, affecting his vineyard just as the buds had emerged due to an unusually warm winter and rising temperatures in March. Thanks to the solidarity of his colleagues from Rouge Provence, he was able to recover 70% of his usual production through grape purchases and exchanges.

Climate change is a daily challenge for these producers, who face threats such as hailstorms, early heat waves, and late frosts. Pierre-François Terrat, from Domaine de Béates, emphasizes that the association has grown in importance as these extreme events become more frequent. In 2023, four Rouge Provence winemakers saw their harvests completely destroyed, testing the group's ability to provide support without compromising their own operations.

Funds raised from the sale of "Plaisir Solidaire" have been used to rent agricultural equipment, finance promotional activities, and organize workdays in affected vineyards. Clara Fischer, from Château Révelette in Jouques, highlights the significance of these efforts for young winemakers, who benefit from both practical support and professional guidance.

Rouge Provence was founded in 2012 when Peter Fischer and Jean-Christophe Comor joined forces to promote the region's red wines, as rosé accounts for 90% of local production. Over time, the group evolved into a support network for winemakers, offering a collaborative response to climate-related disasters. It currently has 34 members, most of whom practice organic or biodynamic viticulture, with vineyards ranging from six to seventy hectares.

Beyond mutual aid, the initiative underscores the identity of Provence's red wines through collective winemaking. Each year, Rouge Provence members harvest their grapes on the same day and craft a unique blend that reflects the vintage and the region's character.