English Wine: The Next Big Thing?

Interest in English wine reflects a notable shift in the international wine market, especially as Champagne sales have declined. Recent data indicates that global Champagne sales dropped from 326 million bottles in 2022 to 300 million in 2023. In the United Kingdom, sales fell from 27.7 million bottles in 2022 to 25 million in 2023. This downturn coincides with a rise in the consumption of English sparkling wine, now available by the glass in many British restaurants.

Since 2018, sales of English sparkling wines have increased by 187%, from 2.2 million to 6.2 million bottles, while still wine sales have risen by 117%, from 1.2 million to 2.6 million bottles. While these figures are still small compared to Champagne, they highlight a growing trend. Stephen Skelton MW, an expert in the wine industry, notes that although sparkling wine consumption in the UK remains low on average, promising trends are emerging.

Investment has played a crucial role in this growth. Over the past five years, more than £480 million has been invested in vineyards and wineries across England, according to FarmingUK. Nicola Bates, CEO of WineGB, points out that while English wine production has been ongoing for three decades, its significant expansion has occurred in the last five years, marking a turning point.

Some of the world's leading wine houses have shown interest in England. Taittinger and Vranken Pommery, two Champagne powerhouses, as well as Germany's Henkell-Freixenet and California's Jackson Family Wines, have made substantial investments. Taittinger, for instance, is involved in Domaine Evremond in Kent, a sparkling wine estate that began production this year after planting its first vines in 2015.

Innovation has also driven growth. In 2018, the UK recorded its largest harvest at the time, producing 13.1 million bottles, a figure surpassed in 2023 with 22 million bottles. Urban and contract wineries have emerged in unconventional locations, such as former mills and railway arches. Defined Wine, the UK's first fully contract winery, has attracted notable figures like Nicholas Lane, who has worked with luxury labels such as Dom Pérignon and Cloudy Bay.

Interest in still wines is also increasing. Varietals like Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Solaris, and Pinot Noir Précoce are carving out a niche, complementing the dominance of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, which account for 70% of plantings for sparkling wine production. Skelton suggests that crafting an English Chardonnay to rival Chablis could present a significant opportunity for the industry.

In 2024, the UK had over 4,200 hectares of vineyards across 1,030 sites, a 75% increase in five years. Projections estimate this will grow to 7,600 hectares by 2032. Regions like Kent, East Sussex, West Sussex, and Surrey are leading this expansion and attracting tourists due to their proximity to London.

Challenges persist, however. Overproduction following large harvests has created a mismatch between supply and demand. While this could lead to more affordable prices, it poses difficulties for those aiming for higher profits. Some experts anticipate that traditional-method English sparkling wines could be available for under £20 in the coming years.

Exports, although growing, remain a small part of the market. Norway leads as the largest international market for English wines, offering 67 sparkling wines through its state monopoly. Japan is another key market, where consumers appreciate the wines' compatibility with seafood dishes.

Despite these challenges, enthusiasm for English wine is strong. Investment, talent, and professionalization are driving a rapidly evolving industry. Both Skelton and Bates emphasize the importance of attracting young professionals, particularly women, to this emerging sector. Bates highlights the valuable expertise international specialists bring to establish the UK as a significant player in the global wine market.