Italy’s wine industry seeks relief at Vinitaly

Verona opened Vinitaly on Sunday with Italy’s wine industry under pressure from weaker consumption, higher costs and a more uncertain global market, but also with a clear message from the government and European officials that the sector remains central to the country’s economy, exports and cultural identity.

The 58th edition of the fair, which runs through Tuesday at Veronafiere, brought together about 4,000 exhibitors, 97,000 operators from 130 countries and a record 433 foreign buyers from 45 nations, according to organizers. The event has long been one of the most important annual gatherings for the wine trade, but this year it also became a stage for broader debates over agriculture policy, tourism, health messaging and the future of wine in Europe.

Antonio Tajani, Italy’s foreign minister and deputy prime minister, attended the opening ceremony and pointed to the role of the diplomatic network and the Italian Trade Agency in bringing international buyers to Verona. He framed Vinitaly as part of a wider effort to strengthen Italian exports at a time when wine remains one of the country’s most visible global products. In 2025, wine accounted for 23.4% of Italy’s total exports by value, worth €7.8 billion, according to figures cited at the fair.

The United Kingdom remains one of the most important markets for Italian wine. In 2024, exports to Britain came close to €860 million, or roughly 10% to 11% of Italy’s total wine exports, making it the third-largest destination for Italian bottles. Producers and trade officials said British consumers continue to favor wines that combine quality with a clear sense of origin and story, two areas where Italy has long had an advantage because of its wide range of regions and grape varieties.

At Vinitaly, Giorgia Meloni made her third official visit as prime minister and used the occasion to offer direct support to producers. She called the fair “the most extraordinary showcase” for one of the strongest expressions of Made in Italy and said the sector generates about €14 billion in annual revenue. She also said her government had tried to respond to rising energy costs by extending tax relief measures for agriculture and blocking increases in agricultural diesel prices.

Meloni linked the wine sector’s challenges to broader geopolitical risks, including instability around the Strait of Hormuz, which she said matters not only for fuel but also for fertilizers used by farmers. In remarks to WineNews, she said wine is “a fundamental part of Italian cuisine” and described her presence at Vinitaly as a sign of solidarity with an industry that has continued to perform despite difficult conditions.

Francesco Lollobrigida, Italy’s agriculture minister, used his appearance at Vinitaly to argue that wine should be defended not only as an economic product but also as part of Italian food culture. He said wine is central to the country’s dining tradition and pushed back against what he described as efforts to treat it as a harmful substance without recognizing its broader social and cultural role. He also said Italy must focus on quality rather than volume if it wants to remain competitive in a market where production is high and consumption patterns are changing.

That message was echoed in meetings between government officials and industry groups during a roundtable known as the Tavolo Vino. Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of Unione Italiana Vini, said producers need to acknowledge that current output levels are too high for today’s market. He said annual production of 42 million to 44 million hectoliters is not being absorbed fully and noted that drinking habits have become more occasional, especially among younger consumers.

Other trade leaders stressed that public policy alone will not solve the sector’s problems. Riccardo Cotarella, president of Assoenologi, said producers must use their quality gains more effectively and defend wine against what he called unfair criticism. Luca Rigotti of Confcooperative said Italy needs a coordinated approach in Brussels as well as in Rome. Rita Babini of Fivi argued that smaller independent growers need simpler rules if they are going to keep investing in export markets.

The European Commission also used Vinitaly as a platform for policy messaging. Christophe Hansen, the European commissioner for agriculture, said wine is more than farming because it has shaped landscapes, language and social life across Europe. He said the sector is under pressure from climate change and volatile markets but pointed to new EU tools meant to support promotion, flexibility and competitiveness. Hansen also highlighted India as a major future market with more than 1.4 billion potential consumers.

John Barker, director general of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, went further by suggesting that there should be serious discussion about seeking UNESCO recognition for wine culture itself. He said wine is part of human history and should be protected through science-based policies that reflect changes in consumption, communication and technology. The idea has gained traction among some producers who see cultural recognition as a way to strengthen both heritage protection and tourism.

That theme was repeated by Marzia Varvaglione, president of CEEV, who said wine’s value lies not only in commerce but also in its connection to territory, hospitality and rural economies. She pointed out that enotourism has become an important source of income across Europe, with about 15 million enotourists generating roughly €15 billion last year.

The fair also highlighted how Italian producers are trying to position themselves in premium segments rather than compete only on price. Global wine exports were valued at about €35.9 billion worldwide last year even as volumes slipped slightly. Producers say this environment favors wines with strong identity and higher margins rather than bulk sales.

One sign of that strategy was a tasting organized by the Historical Super Tuscans committee, which brought attention back to wines that helped redefine Tuscany’s reputation decades ago. The group includes some of the region’s best-known estates, among them Marchesi Antinori, Montevertine, Castello di Monsanto and Querciabella. The tasting showed how many top Tuscan wines are leaning toward greater freshness and balance while still relying on structure and age-worthiness.

Among those poured were Castello di Monsanto’s Fabrizio Bianchi Sangioveto; Badia a Coltibuono’s Sangioveto; Querciabella’s Camartina; Riecine’s La Gioia; Montevertine’s Pergole Torte; Castello di Ama’s L’Apparita; Fèlsina’s Fontalloro; Marchesi Antinori’s Tignanello; and others from Castellare di Castellina, Castello di Albola and Brancaia. The lineup underscored how much prestige still attaches to Tuscany’s most influential labels even as producers adapt their styles to changing tastes.

Vinitaly also served as a reminder that wine remains tied to tourism in Italy. Gianmarco Mazzi, the tourism minister, said enotourism could help spread visitors beyond crowded destinations into lesser-known parts of the country. He described it as a practical way to connect travel with local economies while easing pressure on major cities.

For now, though, much of the conversation in Verona centered on how producers can protect margins while facing slower demand at home and abroad. Industry leaders repeatedly returned to three priorities: reduce excess supply where needed, defend wine against oversimplified health warnings and expand promotion in markets where Italian labels still have room to grow.

As buyers moved through the halls at Veronafiere on Monday morning, those concerns sat alongside another reality: Italian wine still commands attention because it offers scale without losing regional identity. That combination remains one of its strongest assets in Britain, across Europe and in newer markets farther afield where consumers are looking for recognizable brands with a clear sense of place.