The world of sparkling wines, long dominated by the quintessential French champagne, Spanish cava, and Italian prosecco, is witnessing a remarkable shift with the emergence of a new player: Turkish bubbly. The Vinkara winery, located an hour from Ankara, is at the forefront of this transformation, crafting award-winning wines that are quickly gaining international acclaim.
At the heart of Vinkara's success is the local Turkish grape variety, Kalecik Karasi, also known as the "Turkish pinot noir." This dark-skinned grape, on the brink of extinction in the 1980s, has been revitalized thanks to the efforts of Turkish researchers and winegrowers. Vinkara's sparkling wine, made using the traditional champagne method, has captivated the global stage, notably winning the gold medal for the Best Sparkling Wine in the World at a competition in France in 2020.
Vinkara's journey wasn't without its challenges, as initially, the idea of a Turkish sparkling wine was met with skepticism. However, the winery's flagship sparkling wine, "Yasasin" (meaning "Hooray!" in Turkish), with its fruity flavor and floral aroma, has been instrumental in changing perceptions. Candas Misir of Vinkara acknowledges the cautious reception at first but proudly notes how one taste is enough to dispel any doubts.
Turkey's wine industry is experiencing an awakening. Despite strict alcohol regulations and heavy taxation under the current government, there has been a significant increase in the production of dry white and sparkling wines. The country, the sixth largest grape producer globally, has seen a triple increase in dry wine production and a fivefold increase in sparkling wine production over the last 15 years.
The success of Turkish wines, particularly sparkling varieties, can be attributed to the focus on indigenous grape varieties. Over 800 native grape types have been identified, offering an untapped potential for unique and high-quality wines. This renaissance is supported by the collaborative efforts of universities and winemakers.
Experts like Andrea Lemieux, author of "The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine," acknowledge that while Turkish sparkling wines may not yet hold the prestige of their European counterparts, their quality is undeniable. Despite the growing international interest, challenges remain, including limited exports and the high cost of production due to punitive taxes.
Despite these challenges, there is optimism about the future of Turkish sparkling and dry wines. A new generation of Turkish producers and oenologists are committed to research and innovation, ensuring the continued growth and success of the Turkish wine industry.
The story of Turkish sparkling wine, epitomized by Vinkara's "Yasasin," is one of triumph over adversity. It's a narrative of cultural revival, innovative winemaking, and the breaking of international barriers. As the world discovers the charm of these unique wines, Turkey is poised to become a notable player in the global wine scene.
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