How phylloxera reshaped wine history

The history of viticulture has witnessed several turning points, but none as significant as the phylloxera epidemic. This devastating pest, which almost led to the collapse of European viticulture, originated from North America. Its introduction to Europe unintentionally changed the face of global wine production.

The Flourishing Vineyards of the American West

Spanish missions in the American West, particularly in regions like present-day New Mexico, Texas, Northern Mexico, and California, played a pivotal role in establishing a viniculture legacy. The European grapevines planted in these areas prospered, bearing abundant yields from the outset. For over a century, their primary purpose was to cater to religious requirements.

Despite the successes in the West, the Eastern coast of the United States presented challenges. Several attempts by influential figures such as Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, and Thomas Jefferson to cultivate European vines were unfruitful.

Benjamin Franklin sought expertise from Philip Mazzei, a Tuscan-born physician specialized in viticulture. With high hopes, Mazzei introduced the finest European vines to Virginia and even brought specialized labor. However, these efforts met with disappointment.

Thomas Jefferson, future third President of the United States, during his ambassadorial stint in France, traveled extensively across Europe, seeking suitable vine varieties for the US East Coast. Although Jefferson imported numerous vine cuttings, the results mirrored Mazzei's: the vines failed to thrive.

Initially, blame was attributed to climatic conditions and mildew. However, the real adversary turned out to be far more microscopic.

The Phylloxera Vastratix Menace

This tiny aphid-like insect, scientifically named dactylasphaera vitifoliae (formerly phylloxera vastratix), attaches to vine leaves and roots. Vulnerable European grape varieties lacked any defense against this pest. As contact between American and European winemakers increased, phylloxera made its way to Europe.

The devastating insect reached France between 1832 and 1840, specifically targeting the Languedoc region. This migration was attributed to winemakers importing American vines. The repercussions were immediate and devastating. The phylloxera epidemic quickly spread throughout Europe, putting the entire continent's viticulture at risk.

In Spain, the 1870s witnessed the penetration of phylloxera through various entry points: Oporto, Málaga, and Gerona. While the former two were a result of imported American vine rootstocks, the latter was a natural progression from neighboring France.

Fighting the Unstoppable Parasite

Phylloxera multiplies rapidly, feeding on the sap of grapevines, leading to extensive damage to the roots and eventual plant death. The parasite spreads through air, soil, and even the tools used by vintners.

To combat this threat, France established a special commission in 1855, chaired by renowned scientist Louis Pasteur. An international convention was later organized in Berna to consolidate efforts against phylloxera.

Salvation, intriguingly, came from the source of the problem: America. Observations noted that native American vine roots were resistant to the insect. As a result, these roots were used as a base, onto which European varieties were grafted. This practice is now the global standard.

However, the battle against phylloxera continues. Recent missteps by American researchers have led to the pest threatening vineyards, particularly in Oregon.