Lebanese winemakers preserve ancient tradition amid conflict and adversity

Lebanon’s winemaking tradition is among the oldest in the world, with roots that trace back to the Phoenicians. These ancient traders spread viticulture across the Mediterranean thousands of years ago. In 1857, Jesuit monks introduced new vines from Algeria to the Bekaa Valley, laying the foundation for what would become Lebanon’s most prominent wine-producing region. Today, the country is home to around 80 wineries, many of which are concentrated in the Bekaa Valley and focus on French grape varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, cinsault, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay. However, native Lebanese grapes like obaideh, merwah, jandali, and hamdali also play a role in both wine and arak production.

The geography of Lebanon plays a significant role in shaping its wines. While coastal areas are generally flat and hot—conditions that can make it difficult to produce complex wines—the higher elevations of Mount Lebanon, Jezzine, Batroun, and especially the Bekaa Valley offer a more favorable environment. The altitude in these regions creates a wide range between daytime and nighttime temperatures. This diurnal shift helps grapes ripen during the day while preserving acidity at night, resulting in wines with balance and character.

Château Musar stands out as Lebanon’s most internationally recognized winery. Founded by Gaston Hochar in 1930 after he was inspired by Bordeaux’s winemaking traditions, Château Musar has become synonymous with Lebanese wine abroad. During the Lebanese civil war, Gaston’s son Serge shifted the winery’s focus toward exports, particularly to the United Kingdom. This move helped establish Musar’s reputation in Western markets. Today, bottles from Château Musar are available through major importers and even some supermarkets.

Despite ongoing conflict in Lebanon—including recent airstrikes in the eastern Bekaa Valley—local winemakers continue to persevere. Henna Bakshi, an award-winning wine journalist who has covered winemaking in war zones, emphasizes that Lebanon should not be defined by its history of conflict. She points out that the quality of Lebanese wine remains high despite challenging circumstances. Bakshi encourages wine lovers to taste Lebanese wines without preconceived notions about their origin.

Winemakers have adapted to adversity in creative ways. During last year’s airstrikes, Eddie Chami of Mersel Wine lost power at his facility but continued making wine using a headlamp for light. He documented his experience on social media, capturing not only his determination but also the reality of working under threat.

Lebanese wines are gaining recognition for their quality and resilience. Producers continue to experiment with both international and indigenous grape varieties. The country’s unique terroir—shaped by altitude and climate—allows for a diverse range of styles. As more consumers discover Lebanese wines outside their homeland, there is growing appreciation for both their history and their modern achievements.

The story of Lebanese wine is one of endurance and innovation. Despite political instability and economic challenges, winemakers remain committed to their craft. Their efforts are helping to ensure that Lebanon’s ancient tradition of viticulture continues into the future, offering wine lovers around the world a taste of its rich heritage.