Cru Bourgeois Classification Tightens, Reduces Estates by 37.7%

The latest Cru Bourgeois classification has been announced, maintaining the three-tier system introduced in 2020 but with stricter selection criteria. Effective from the 2025 vintage, the classification now includes 170 estates, down from 249 in 2020, marking a 37.7% decrease. The classification comprises 14 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 36 Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and 120 Cru Bourgeois estates.

The reduction in numbers is attributed to challenging market conditions and more stringent requirements across all tiers. Estates were evaluated through blind tastings of five vintages to assess quality consistency and aging potential. The standards for Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Exceptionnel have been raised, requiring estates to demonstrate technical, viticultural, and commercial investments. Detailed dossiers on vineyard management, sustainability initiatives, and sales strategies were necessary for qualification. Visitor facilities, brand development, and market presence were also considered.

Environmental certification played a significant role, with each property visited to ensure eligibility. Cru Bourgeois estates needed at least level two environmental certification, while Supérieur and Exceptionnel properties required Levels two and three HVE certification. Ten experts reviewed each dossier to award points, followed by a six-member jury, chaired by Philippe Faure-Brac, 1992 World’s Best Sommelier, who determined the final distinctions. For the highest classification of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, a two-thirds majority vote from the jury was required.

The number of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels remains the same as in 2020. Six estates retained their ranking, eight were upgraded, and eight were removed from the classification. The new Exceptionnel estates include Château la Cardonne, Château Castera, Château Laujac, Château Malescasse, Château de Malleret, Château Paloumey, Château Reysson, Château du Taillan, Château Reverdi, Château Mongravey, and Château Lafitte Carcasset.

The Cru Bourgeois system aims to provide clarity for consumers and allow top-performing estates to stand out. The latest update reinforces this by ensuring consistency and quality across all levels. Armelle Cruse, vice-president of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois, stated that the raised selection criteria aim to help the Cru Bourgeois family produce varied, consistent, and high-quality wines. Although fewer estates are classified, the rigorous assessment may refine the offerings for consumers.

Previous classification updates sparked debate, particularly regarding marketing and tourism's role in the rankings. However, the increased focus on sustainability credentials is likely welcomed by many in the industry. Faure-Brac noted that the classification reflects a particular period, recognizing estates for their efforts to produce better wines by adapting to market and climate changes. He observed that fewer applicants were expected given the economic climate, but those who applied were highly motivated, emphasizing vineyard quality and steps toward organic or environmentally responsible production.

This shift highlights the growing emphasis on sustainability within the Bordeaux wine industry, addressing past criticisms and aligning with modern consumer expectations. Faure-Brac emphasized that the classification is primarily for consumers, providing guarantees in tasting and production quality. It serves as a reference point amid the abundance of available products.

Château Paloumey is one of this year's winners. The 37-hectare family-owned estate, managed by Pierre Cazeneuve, blends two distinct terroirs in the Haut-Médoc appellation and has been certified organic since 2019. Cazeneuve expressed that the classification makes sense to him, focusing on shared values and collective tools. He believes that external challenges push him to improve and adapt his vineyards for climate change and consumer needs.

Since joining the estate full-time in 2016, Cazeneuve transitioned the vineyards to organic certification in 2019 and replanted 12% to agroforestry between 2020 and 2021. He also installed solar panels on the harvest reception area's roof. Cazeneuve was pleased with Paloumey's previous Supérieur classification, which motivated him to improve further. He has experimented with later-ripening varieties and different rootstocks to adapt to current soils and future conditions due to climate change.

Cazeneuve emphasized the importance of being a Cru Bourgeois, a historic certification and brand that has long been significant in the Médoc. He challenges himself daily to do the best for consumers, hoping that becoming an Exceptionnel will benefit sales, though the market will ultimately decide.

The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification has a long history of quality in Bordeaux, dating back centuries. During English rule, merchants benefited from tax exemptions, allowing them to acquire prime vineyard plots. By the 15th century, these estates were known as 'Crus des Bourgeois,' laying the foundation for a recognized category of Médoc wines. The first recorded price list appeared in 1740, and by 1858, a hierarchy of Crus Bourgeois was documented.

In 1932, a structured classification emerged, listing 444 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, though it lacked official ministerial approval. Over the decades, the classification evolved, with the Syndicat des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc founded in 1962 to protect and promote these wines. Legal recognition of the Crus Bourgeois label came in 1979, ensuring its continued use under regulatory oversight.

The first official classification, sanctioned by a ministerial decree, arrived in 2003, introducing three tiers: Crus Bourgeois, Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs, and Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels. However, this classification faced legal challenges and was annulled in 2007 over impartiality concerns. To preserve the Crus Bourgeois designation's integrity, the Syndicat restructured its approach, implementing a quality-focused selection process. This led to the annual publication of an official selection starting in 2010. By 2016, a new five-year classification system was approved, restoring the three-tier ranking and offering a more stable and transparent recognition process. The inaugural edition of this new classification debuted in 2020, covering the 2018 vintage and reaffirming the commitment to quality within the category. The new 2025 update sees 170 estates classified over the next five years.

Looking ahead, the Crus Bourgeois classification continues to serve as a beacon of quality and innovation. Faure-Brac noted that any classification provides visibility, which is crucial given the current economic climate and changing consumer habits. This visibility will help châteaux with the label stand out, offering a guarantee of quality and benefiting from collective promotional initiatives essential for development. The Crus Bourgeois classification is a dynamic and forward-looking system, ensuring that Médoc estates consistently strive for excellence while offering consumers reliable guidance in selecting high-quality Bordeaux wines.