Prolonged Drought Forces French Winemakers to Uproot Vineyards

Nicolas Castan, a 42-year-old winemaker from Aude, France, is facing the harsh reality of prolonged drought that has been plaguing the Roussillon plain since 2022. The drought has forced him to uproot the vineyards planted by his father and grandfather over 70 years ago. He feels a sense of failure and regret as he watches his family's legacy being destroyed.

The wine industry is currently grappling with climate change and a declining demand. To help the struggling winemakers, the Ministry of Agriculture introduced a support program in mid-October. The program, funded by European funds intended to support vineyards affected by the Ukraine war, offers 4,000 euros per hectare of uprooted vineyard.

Over 5,400 French winemakers have applied for this "Ukraine uprooting" program in a month and a half, aiming to destroy 27,461 hectares of vineyards across France, including nearly 5,000 in Aude alone. The prolonged drought is the main reason for this drastic step, especially in the Roussillon plain, which straddles Aude and Pyrénées-Orientales.

Unlike the rest of France, where 61% of groundwater levels were above normal in early January, Roussillon is still facing a worrying situation due to a significant rainfall deficit since 2022, according to the Bureau of Geological and Mining Research (BRGM).

Jean-Pierre Fournier, a 38-year-old winemaker and vice president of the Leucate cooperative winery, is also dealing with the heartbreaking reality of uprooting his vineyards. He has given up 7 hectares out of 32, with the aim to pay off suppliers and the agricultural social security organization, MSA, and to re-strategize his production.

However, the downside is the degradation of the landscape, which heavily relies on tourism, and an increased vulnerability to fires, as the vineyards no longer serve as firebreaks.

Nicolas Castan, who was disheartened during the 2024 harvest, considered quitting. However, his attachment to the profession made him rethink his decision. He is now changing his strategy, keeping only 32 hectares out of 68. But he warns, "If it doesn't rain, in two years, I'm done! I won't be able to recover."