Austria Advances Wine Industry with Single Vineyard Classification

Austria is making strides in the wine industry by focusing on classifying single vineyards. This initiative aligns with the country's broader strategy to boost global wine sales. Recently, over 100 Austrian wine producers gathered in London for a tasting event. Chris Yorke, CEO of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, emphasized Austria's position as a premium wine producer that balances tradition with modernity. The country now boasts 5,000 officially recognized single vineyards, supported by a detailed website, austrianvineyards.com. Unlike France, Austria has a unified national vineyard classification system, which was legally established in 2023.

Yorke highlighted Austria's 40-year journey towards quality wine production. He noted the country's commitment to continuous improvement and the unique Austrian approach to codifying wine standards. The Österreich Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW), a producers' association with 90 members across eight DAC wine regions, has been instrumental in this classification effort. While the ÖTW focuses on high-end, site-specific wines, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board shares the goal of increasing exports and promoting premium wines.

A recent masterclass in London showcased ÖTW Erste Lagen, or "premier cru," wines. Andreas Wickhoff MW, general manager of Weingut Bründlmayer, a founding member of the ÖTW, discussed the growing importance of Erste Lage sites. He traced the classification's roots back to 1991 in Kamptal and Kremstal, emphasizing Austria's rich wine history dating back to the 1100s. Wickhoff noted that Austria has long named wines after their origin, a tradition that predates the ÖTW.

While not all Austrian regions have adopted the Erste Lagen and Grosse Lagen (grand cru) classification model, the focus on single vineyard wines is expanding. For instance, Burgenland has not embraced this classification due to its unique history, similar to the Rhône. However, regions like Weststeiermark are increasingly recognizing the value of single vineyard wines. Stefan Langmann of Weingut Lex Langmann is among those championing this approach, seeing it as a way to highlight the most special sites.

Langmann believes that focusing on single vineyards suits his region's specialties, Sauvignon Blanc and Schilcher. He envisions a future where labels feature vineyard names rather than grape varieties. However, he acknowledges that current market demand still favors grape variety labeling. Despite this, Langmann uses single vineyard expressions to elevate the perception of Schilcher, a signature rosé style in Weststeiermark. He sees Schilcher as central to his production and aims to showcase its serious potential.

Austria's vineyard classification efforts reflect a broader commitment to quality and innovation in the wine industry. By promoting single vineyards, the country aims to strengthen its position in the global market and highlight the unique characteristics of its wine regions.