French Wine Sector Faces Crisis as Consumption Drops and Industry Calls for Immediate Action

Jérôme Bauer, president of France’s National Confederation of Producers of Wines and Eau-de-vie with AOC (CNAOC), has called on French policymakers to move beyond new roundtables and sovereignty plans, urging instead for concrete and timely support for the country’s wine sector. Speaking in response to a recent Senate report on the ongoing crisis in French viticulture, Bauer emphasized that the industry does not seek special privileges but demands coherent action and regulatory clarity.

The French wine sector has faced a prolonged period of difficulty, marked by falling consumption, climate-related challenges, and economic pressures. The Senate report highlighted that the industry has not sufficiently adapted to changing consumer habits and environmental shifts. While Bauer acknowledged that the report raises important questions, he argued that the sector has already made significant efforts to reform. He pointed to changes in production guidelines, yield management, and environmental practices as evidence of ongoing adaptation.

Bauer also addressed proposals to include wine merchants in the governance of Organismes de Défense et de Gestion (ODG), which oversee appellations. He noted that while some ODGs have already integrated downstream operators, the system’s strength lies in its producer-led governance, which maintains the link between product, terroir, and market. Any changes to this structure should be approached with caution to protect both economic efficiency and the credibility of appellations.

The idea of holding new “assises” or roundtable discussions for viticulture was met with skepticism by Bauer. He argued that the time for diagnosis is over and that urgent action is needed to address crises in value, volume, and generational renewal within the sector. He referenced Cap’Vin 2030, a plan developed by national organizations representing both producers and merchants, as an example of existing consensus-driven strategy. According to Bauer, what is needed now are operational measures rather than further debate.

Bauer criticized suggestions that financial aid for wine producers should be contingent on the outcomes of such roundtables. He described this approach as counterproductive, warning that it would unfairly penalize individual producers for potential collective or institutional failures. Instead, he called for aid programs with clear objectives focused on climate adaptation, environmental transition, vineyard restructuring, value retention, promotion, and market recovery.

The Senate report also recommended strengthening France’s National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) and simplifying the country’s complex system of protected designations (AOP/IGP). Bauer agreed on the need to reinforce INAO but cautioned against oversimplifying France’s diverse range of appellations. He argued that diversity is central to French wine identity and that any streamlining should be handled at a regional level rather than nationally.

Bauer expressed concern about government initiatives such as “Origin’info,” a labeling scheme intended to indicate ingredient origins. He warned that without strict standards and oversight, such measures could dilute the concept of origin and confuse consumers.

On legislative matters, Bauer highlighted the importance of bipartisan support among lawmakers for the wine sector. He noted that while some parliamentarians advocate for higher taxes on alcoholic beverages, others are actively working to support viticulture. He called for unity across political lines to address key issues such as administrative simplification, economic tools like Egalim (which aims to ensure fair prices for farmers), pragmatic approaches to phytosanitary regulations—especially regarding copper use—and opposition to increased advertising restrictions or excise taxes.

A recurring point of contention within the industry is France’s Évin law, which restricts alcohol advertising. While some blame this law for declining wine consumption in France, Bauer rejected this view. He pointed out that similar trends are seen in countries without such laws and noted that beer and spirits have not experienced comparable declines despite being subject to the same regulations. Instead of using the law as an excuse for falling sales, Bauer urged producers to adapt their communication strategies within existing legal limits while also opening a debate about updating the law in light of new marketing channels and cultural shifts.

Bauer’s comments reflect widespread frustration within France’s wine sector over what many see as regulatory inertia amid mounting challenges. His call is clear: rather than more discussion or symbolic plans, he wants immediate action from policymakers—action that will allow producers to adapt quickly and maintain their role as a cornerstone of French agriculture and culture.