Wine Paris Fair Showcases Non-Alcoholic Wines as Industry Embraces Changing Tastes

At the Wine Paris industry fair this week, non-alcoholic and low-alcohol wines and spirits were given their own dedicated space for the first time, signaling a shift in the wine industry’s approach to these products. Bertrand Degat, vineyard manager for French Bloom, a French zero-alcohol wine producer, described the skepticism and criticism he has faced from peers. “Whatever you do, you’re judged,” Degat said. He noted that some people close to him initially refused to even taste his company’s wine. Despite lingering snobbery in the sector, attitudes are changing as demand for non-alcoholic options grows.

French Bloom launched in 2021 and has since acquired its own vineyard in southwest France. The company now sells a premium sparkling white wine for more than €100 ($118) a bottle and expects to sell one million bottles this year. French luxury conglomerate LVMH has invested in the brand, which is also the official non-alcoholic sparkling wine sponsor of Formula One motor racing.

The rise of non-alcoholic wine comes at a time when the broader French wine industry is facing significant challenges. Some traditional producers are removing vines to plant olives or apricots due to declining demand. In contrast, non-alcoholic winemakers like French Bloom are experiencing rapid growth.

Mathilde Boulachin, founder of Chavin, another leading French non-alcoholic wine brand, said there is a steady decline in alcohol consumption both in France and globally. “We’re here to support responsible drinking, offering different alternatives for all consumers who want another option,” Boulachin said. The market for non-alcoholic wine extends beyond younger generations who drink less than their parents. It also includes pregnant women, health-conscious individuals, and people who avoid alcohol for religious reasons.

Most no- or low-alcohol wines are made using a de-alcoholization process that heats the wine under vacuum conditions to evaporate the alcohol at low temperatures. However, this process often removes many of the aromas that give wine its complexity. Some producers try to compensate by adding artificial or natural aromas or sugar, but the resulting wines often lack depth and linger less on the palate compared to traditional wines.

Paul Schaafsma of UK-based Benchmark Drinks addressed this issue at an event during Wine Paris. He said that for years, non-alcoholic wines have disappointed consumers because they were always seen as a compromise. Benchmark Drinks produces no-alcohol wines for celebrity brands like Elton John and Kylie Minogue using a different method: fermenting grape juice with bacteria that does not produce alcohol and adding Chinese green tea for complexity and tannins. Schaafsma acknowledged that purists might not consider these products true wines but pointed out that over one million bottles of Kylie Minogue sparkling rosé have been sold.

Innovation was on display at Wine Paris, with several companies presenting tea-based drinks packaged like wine. Johannes Trautwein from German producer Trautwein said products need to have profiles close to wine—mature, complex, and layered—to appeal to consumers seeking alternatives.

Martynas Zemavicius, a former London sommelier who founded Acala in Lithuania, began making tea-based drinks that mimic the minerality and acidity of wine after his wife became pregnant 12 years ago. He recalled buying every available non-alcoholic wine at the time and pouring them all down the sink due to poor quality. While he acknowledges improvements in recent years, Zemavicius believes most options still lack structure and balance.

As consumer preferences shift toward responsible drinking and new alternatives emerge, producers are working to improve quality and complexity in non-alcoholic wines. The sector continues to grow rapidly as it seeks acceptance among both traditionalists and new audiences worldwide.