Chinese Wines Outshine French Rivals in 300-Bottle Tasting, Says Leading Critic

Michel Bettane, a leading French wine critic, recently completed a tour of China where he tasted more than 300 premium Chinese wines. Bettane, who has built a career spanning decades in the wine industry and is known for his work with La Revue du vin de France and the Bettane & Desseauve Guide, shared his findings after participating in the sixth edition of the Bettane + Desseauve Wine Tasting event held in Beijing and Shangri-La, Yunnan.

Bettane’s assessment has surprised many in the French wine community. He stated that Chinese wines are now superior to many found in France, especially among high-end selections. This conclusion comes after he and five other international wine experts evaluated hundreds of Chinese wines during their visit. According to Bettane, China is experiencing what he called an “astonishing awakening of terroir,” a term used to describe the unique characteristics imparted to wine by its environment.

Fifteen years ago, China was not considered a significant player in the global wine industry. Today, however, Chinese wineries are gaining recognition for their focus on quality rather than quantity. Many Chinese winemakers have studied in Europe’s top wine regions and have applied that knowledge back home. By leveraging the unique features of their own regions, they are producing wines that are increasingly sought after on the international market.

Bettane highlighted the technical precision he observed in Chinese winemaking, particularly in grape maturation and fermentation processes. He noted that almost none of the wines he tasted had serious flaws and said that the overall standard of winemaking was often higher than what he encounters during annual tastings in France.

Two regions stood out during his tour: Ningxia and Yunnan. Ningxia, known for its harsh winters, has developed innovative techniques such as burying vines to protect them from snow. The region has drawn inspiration from Bordeaux but is now developing its own identity. Yunnan also impressed Bettane, especially with a white wine—a Chardonnay from Shangri-La—that he believes can compete with some of the world’s best white wines.

Bettane observed that Chinese producers initially focused on replicating European styles but are now experimenting more with local grape varieties and adapting to their own climates and soils. He compared this evolution to trends seen in the technology sector, where Chinese smartphone manufacturers first emulated Apple before developing their own innovations.

The vastness of China’s territory offers almost unlimited possibilities for creating and refining new grape varieties. Bettane’s comments have sparked discussion within the French wine industry and among wine enthusiasts worldwide about the future direction of global winemaking.

The rise of Chinese wines reflects broader changes in both production techniques and consumer preferences. As China continues to invest in its wine industry and develop its own style, it is likely to play an increasingly important role on the world stage. For now, French cheese remains unchallenged by Asian competitors, but when it comes to wine, China is quickly closing the gap.