Global Wine Consumption Drops 12% Since 2019 as Bordeaux Faces Lowest Production in 60 Years

In the heart of Bordeaux, France, winemakers are facing a crisis that threatens the future of one of the world’s most famous wine regions. The area, known for its centuries-old châteaux and sprawling vineyards, has long been a symbol of French culture and a major player in the $515 billion global wine industry. Last year, Bordeaux produced 484 million bottles, accounting for about 14% of France’s total wine output. Every 15 seconds, somewhere in the world, someone buys a bottle of Bordeaux. But behind this image of prosperity, producers are struggling with challenges that go beyond their control.

Laurent Dubois, owner of Château Les Bertrands in the village of Reignac, represents the ninth generation of his family to run the estate since its founding in 1692. Despite surviving wars and economic downturns over three centuries, Dubois says today’s problems feel different. “The crisis is very strong,” he says. “We have never seen this.” The main issues are falling global wine sales and production, which have reached their lowest levels in more than 60 years according to the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV). Since 2019, worldwide wine consumption has dropped by about 12%. In the United States—the largest market for Bordeaux—sales have fallen even further.

Changing consumer habits are at the center of this decline. Only 54% of American adults now drink alcohol, the lowest rate in 90 years according to Gallup. Even in France, wine consumption has dropped by nearly 5% since 2000 and could fall another 20% over the next decade. Younger generations, especially Gen Z, are drinking less alcohol overall and show little interest in traditional wines like Bordeaux. Many prefer cocktails, hard seltzers, or wines from other regions that are often cheaper and marketed as more modern or exotic. Health concerns also play a role; more young people are choosing sobriety or limiting their alcohol intake.

The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated these trends by closing bars and restaurants for months and changing social habits. When venues reopened, many young adults did not return to old patterns of going out regularly. At the same time, older consumers are drinking less as they age. This double hit from both ends of the demographic spectrum has left small family-owned wineries like those in Bordeaux particularly vulnerable.

Trade tensions have made matters worse. After Russia invaded Ukraine in 2022, the European Union banned sales of high-end wines to Russia—a significant market for French producers. Meanwhile, U.S.-France trade relations have soured under President Trump’s administration. The dollar has weakened against the euro by about 12%, making French wines more expensive for American buyers. In August last year, Trump imposed a blanket 15% tariff on European goods including wine. This move hurt both French exporters and American importers who rely on French products.

The impact is clear: Bordeaux shipped about 30 million bottles to the U.S. in the past year but saw an 8.4% drop in dollar value compared to previous years. Importers like Victor Schwartz in Manhattan report profits down by as much as 60% since tariffs began. Legal challenges to these tariffs continue in U.S. courts but uncertainty remains high.

In response to falling demand and rising costs, Bordeaux winemakers are being forced to make tough decisions. The French government is seeking €200 million from the European Union to help compensate wineries as they reduce production. Industry leaders propose removing up to 247,000 acres of vineyards—about one-eighth of France’s total—to better match supply with demand.

At Château Les Bertrands, Laurent Dubois plans to rip out one-fifth of his vines over the next two years and cut production by 25%. He is also exploring new markets in Asia where demand for Bordeaux wines is growing and considering diversifying into other crops such as olives and nuts. The family is rethinking its approach to kosher wine exports to New York as younger consumers there turn away from traditional products.

Some winemakers are experimenting with zero-alcohol wines or opening alcohol-free wine bars in an effort to attract new customers. But many fear these measures may not be enough if current trends continue.

For now, Bordeaux’s winemakers must adapt quickly or risk losing their place in a changing global market. The region’s future depends on finding new ways to connect with consumers while navigating political and economic uncertainty abroad. As Dubois puts it: “We will produce only the quantity we sell.”