California’s Century-Old Vineyards at Risk as 75% of Consumers Unaware of Their Value

Industry leaders, vineyard owners, and wine professionals gathered in Sonoma’s wine country on November 3 for the Old Vine Conference, an event held under the patronage of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV). The meeting focused on the uncertain future of California’s heritage vineyards, which are facing mounting threats from economic pressures, consumer unawareness, and challenges in labeling and packaging. These old vines, some over a century old, are considered by many to be the foundation of quality winemaking in the state.

The conference took place against a backdrop of oversupply in California’s wine industry. A surplus of grapes and bulk wine has led to falling prices and increased pressure on vineyard owners. Many are now considering removing old vines or selling their land. Panelists warned that this could result in the loss of valuable agricultural knowledge about how these vines adapt to California’s changing climate. It could also harm families who have maintained these vineyards for generations.

Stuart Spencer, executive director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, voiced concern about the economic imbalance facing local growers. He pointed out that while old vines are being threatened at home, large wine companies are importing millions of gallons of inexpensive foreign wine. Spencer called for a global approach to balancing supply and demand so that farmers can have more influence in the market.

Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co. highlighted what he described as a “price ceiling problem.” He explained that old vine wines are often associated with Zinfandel, a grape variety that rarely commands high prices. According to Twain-Peterson, even top-quality old vine Zinfandels struggle to sell for more than $75 per bottle—a price point where Napa Cabernet Sauvignon often begins. This economic reality makes it difficult for growers to justify keeping old vines when more profitable options exist.

Speakers at the conference agreed that for old vines to survive, vineyard managers must be able to earn more by preserving them than by replacing them with higher-yielding varieties or selling their land for development. Achieving this requires greater consumer enthusiasm for old vine wines and clearer labeling practices.

Christian Miller of Full Glass Research and Wine Market Council presented findings from recent consumer research. His study revealed that while wine professionals understand and value old vine wines, most consumers do not know what “old vine” means or why it matters. When shown images of ancient gnarled vines alongside modern trellised vineyards, consumers without prior exposure could not distinguish between them. However, once informed about the history and significance of old vines, many consumers responded positively to attributes such as heritage, complexity, and cultural preservation.

Twain-Peterson shared similar experiences from his work in restaurants. He noted that when he explains the story behind old vineyards to guests, they quickly connect with the historical aspect. He referenced business consultant Simon Sinek’s idea that people are motivated by purpose: “people don’t buy what you do; people buy why you do it.” For old vine wines, he said, the “why” is compelling—these are vineyards preserved through generations despite financial pressures.

Despite this potential appeal, getting information about old vines to consumers remains a challenge. Panelists debated how best to communicate vine age on wine labels and whether certification seals or specific language should be used. Twain-Peterson cautioned against vague or misleading terminology that could undermine credibility—comparing it to “greenwashing” in other industries. He stressed that any information provided must be reliable and consistent.

Peter Granoff of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant raised practical concerns about applying old vine stickers to bottles in retail settings, citing labor costs and inconsistency. He advocated for integrating old vine designations directly into wine labels, similar to how some natural wines indicate “no added sulfites.” This approach would make it easier for staff to answer customer questions and provide clear information at the point of sale.

Scott Stewart of Skurnik Wines discussed the financial burden associated with updating labels or obtaining certification—costs that can be prohibitive for small producers working with heritage vineyards. The South African Old Vine Project was cited as a successful example; its seal displays the actual planting year on each bottle. However, this system relies on South Africa’s comprehensive vineyard registry dating back over a century—a resource not available in California or most other regions.

In California, verifying vine age is complicated by the lack of official records. Producers must rely on indirect evidence such as planting patterns, rootstock analysis, and historical documents to estimate ages. Despite these hurdles, many trade members expressed support for clearer labeling if implemented thoughtfully.

Panelists also discussed how best to reach consumers who might appreciate old vine wines. Stewart noted that most sales efforts involve pushing information out rather than responding to consumer demand—except among dedicated Zinfandel fans. Morgan Harris, MS, warned against trying to create mass-market appeal for a category defined by limited supply. Instead, panelists suggested targeting engaged consumers who already value artisanal products and agricultural heritage.

Miller’s research indicated that adding an old vine designation can influence purchasing decisions among interested consumers—serving as a “tiebreaker” when choosing between similar bottles. While region and grape variety remain primary factors in buying decisions, clear information about vine age can tip the balance in favor of heritage wines.

The conference made clear that California’s heritage vineyards face an uncertain future unless economic conditions improve and consumer awareness grows. While there is strong support within the industry for preserving these historic sites, real progress will depend on effective communication with consumers and practical solutions for labeling and certification. As growers weigh difficult decisions about whether to keep or remove their oldest vines, industry leaders continue searching for ways to ensure these living links to California’s winemaking past remain part of its future.