What is a “Blanc de Noirs” champagne?

The world of wine and champagne is vast and diverse, boasting an array of flavors, techniques, and traditions that have been honed over centuries. Central to this universe is the concept of "Blanc de Noirs," a term that denotes the unique method of producing white champagne from black grapes. This article delves into the nuances of this exceptional technique and its history.

Champagne is a product of its environment. The "crus," or distinct plots of land with their unique characteristics, play a crucial role in the flavors and profiles of each bottle. With over 280,000 individual parcels spread across 320 municipalities, the diversity is staggering. Each of these parcels presents distinct attributes that contribute to the overall composition of the champagne.

At its heart, the méthode champenoise is known for its double fermentation process. The first fermentation occurs in a tank or vat, while the subsequent one takes place within the bottle itself.

Grapes of Distinction: The Main Contributors

Champagne is primarily derived from three grape varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier.

Chardonnay – A white grape indigenous to the Burgundy region, especially near the village of Chardonnay. References to its cultivation date as far back as the 10th century. In the Champagne region, it's commonly found in the Aube and Marne departments, particularly the Cote de Blancs, renowned for its chalky soils. The grape lends the wine finesse, elegance, mineral undertones, and longevity.

Pinot Noir – This grape, with its white pulp, is quintessential to the red wines of Burgundy. Chiefly grown in the Montagne de Reims and Cote des Bars, it's a grape that thrives in relatively cooler climates. Noted for imparting structure, body, and a robust framework to wines, pinot noir is a staple in the champagne world.

Pinot Meunier – Often simply referred to as meunier or by the name schwarzriesling, it's a late budding and early ripening black grape. While historically considered inferior to its more "noble" counterparts, the modern wine-making world has come to appreciate the body, richness, fruitiness, and roundness it contributes to champagne.

Decoding "Blanc de Noirs"

"Blanc de Noirs" translates as "white from blacks," signifying a white wine or champagne derived from black grapes. This concept isn't exclusive to champagne; there are non-sparkling wines and sparklers globally, like crémant de Bourgogne, crémant d'Alsace, and many Spanish cavas, that employ this method.

Though records indicate prior instances of white wine production using black grapes, the "blanc de noirs" concept's roots trace back to French Champagne. Historically, the region's vineyard area was predominantly covered by pinot noir and pinot meunier, leading vintners to utilize these grapes in champagne production. This inadvertently led to the discovery of the unique organoleptic properties these grapes offered.

The manufacturing process relies on meticulously controlled pressing to instantaneously separate the grape skin, preventing the transfer of color to the juice. In the champagne realm, while "blanc de blancs" is produced exclusively from chardonnay, "blanc de noirs" can be crafted from pinot noir, pinot meunier, or a blend of the two. Wines of this classification exhibit the strength, body, and structure of the former, harmonized with the fruitiness and roundness of the latter.