Champagne's rising popularity in the US: the David and Goliath of the wine industry

2023-07-19

El asombroso aumento de los envíos de champán a EE.UU. reconfigura el panorama de la industria vitivinícola

The wine industry in the United States, which has been grappling with stagnant sales, found an unexpected oasis in the Champagne segment. According to the Champagne Bureau, a staggering 33 million-plus bottles of this sparkling wine were shipped to the US last year, marking the highest volume shipped to any country worldwide. These shipments didn't just indicate volume but also value; exports surged by an impressive 58 percent to the US.

The bubbly's global allure is evident. The worldwide shipments of Champagne surpassed the $6.6 billion mark for the first time. Out of this, the US contributed to nearly $1 billion of the consumption.

But beyond the effervescence of these figures lies a deeper introspection for the industry. Most of the Champagne fervently consumed in the US originates from substantial entities helmed by large corporations. As younger generations increasingly express skepticism towards big businesses, the question arises: Is this trend sustainable?

A Peek into the Champagne Landscape

The Champagne appellation sprawls over 84,000 acres, encompassing 320 villages or crus. Among them, 17 are considered grand. This vast expanse contains 280,000 plots looked after by 16,000 dedicated growers. But the market is highly concentrated. Of the 2000 Champagne houses, a mere 100 are responsible for over two-thirds of all Champagne sales. Even more astoundingly, they account for 90 percent of the export market.

To put this into perspective, the wine and spirits arm of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) has ownership of multiple renowned houses, such as Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Moët & Chandon, and Dom Pérignon. Market Watch reports that in the US, Moët and Veuve Clicquot dominate the Champagne segment, collectively making up approximately two-thirds of the market share. In stark contrast, family-owned houses, many of which nurture their own vineyards, hold a mere 5 percent of sales.

Yet, Champagne isn't merely about figures or corporate dominion. It is revered not only for its meticulously crafted aromas and flavors but also for the luxury, craftsmanship, and royalty it epitomizes. From historical figures like Louis XV and Madame de Pompadour to contemporary icons like Jay Z and Beyoncé, Champagne has been the drink of choice for those looking to celebrate in style.

There's a prevailing belief that smaller, independent houses might offer a more authentic and nuanced Champagne experience. Moreover, their unique narratives and boutique size might resonate more profoundly with the younger consumers.

The Underlying Complexities

However, the dichotomy isn't merely about indie versus corporate. It's more intricate. While the notion of supporting indie Champagne producers over corporate giants sounds ideal, economic challenges and climate threats are redefining this landscape.

Despite Champagne's evident financial success, looming challenges question the region's continued prosperity. In this turbulent environment, a pertinent question emerges: Which entities, independent brands or large-scale corporate-backed houses, are best positioned to brave the impending storm?

In sum, as the US's love affair with Champagne intensifies, it's imperative for stakeholders to gauge the undercurrents of this industry and strategize for a future where sustainability meets demand.