France & ItalyTeam Up for Age-Worthy Rosés

France and Italy are working together to promote age-worthy rosé wines, aiming to position them alongside the world's great whites and reds. The initiative comes from the French association Rosés de Terroir, which seeks to expand to Italian producers and establish a collection of well-defined origin rosés capable of evolving for a decade or more.

Philippe Guigal, president of the association, presented the proposal in Milan, inviting Italian producers under the title "Rosés de Terroirs, Let's Unite." The event, held at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, featured a tasting of Italian rosés and rosati, with the support of sommelier Alfredo Moccia and chef Francesco Potenza. Rather than a competition, the gathering aimed to lay the foundation for a manifesto that would support the authenticity of these wines and strengthen their market presence.

The association currently includes 59 wineries from France, Italy, Greece, and Spain, with a strong presence of producers from Tavel in the Rhône Valley, a designation known for high-quality rosés. The Milan tasting showcased 22 wines.

Guigal pointed out that the rosé market has grown steadily over the past two decades and is now in a phase of diversification that allows for new styles to emerge. The association's goal is to position terroir-driven rosés in an exclusive segment, appealing to collectors and emphasizing their aging potential. However, in some countries, such as Italy, this concept conflicts with traditional classification standards.

One example is Chiar'Otto from Villa Calicantus, whose 2020 vintage was initially rejected by the Bardolino Chiaretto DOC tasting commission for not meeting the denomination's parameters. Despite this, the winery's inclusion in the Rosés de Terroir initiative has been seen as recognition of the work of owner Daniele Delaini. His philosophy focuses on preserving the vineyard's natural expression without altering color or alcohol levels, using only indigenous yeasts and allowing each vintage to reflect its origin.

Chiar'Otto, made from Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, and Sangiovese grapes grown on south-facing pergola-trained vines, represents a commitment to a rosé style that challenges conventions. The French-led initiative aims to bring more producers under this approach and establish a niche market for long-lived rosés, a concept that still faces certain barriers but is gaining recognition both within and beyond Italy.