Château Lafleur Exits Bordeaux Appellations to Gain Flexibility Amid Climate Change

Wine appellation systems, known as geographical indications (GIs), are facing new challenges as climate change disrupts traditional growing conditions and forces producers to reconsider long-standing regulations. In November, Sandro Boscaini, president of Amarone producer Masi, stated that fewer than 10% of Italy’s current wine denominations are truly necessary today. His comments have fueled a debate about the relevance of GIs in the modern wine market, especially as climate change accelerates.

The issue gained further attention last August when Château Lafleur, a top Pomerol estate in France, announced it would withdraw from both the Pomerol and Bordeaux appellations. The estate will now label its wines as Vin de France. The decision was driven by the need for greater flexibility to adapt to heatwaves and unpredictable weather, which are increasingly at odds with strict appellation rules.

Traditionally, GIs in Europe have served as guardians of local traditions, dictating which grape varieties can be grown and how wines must be made. These rules were designed to protect regional identity and ensure quality. However, as climate change alters growing conditions, these same regulations can make it difficult for producers to adapt quickly. Simon Tscholl, co-author of a recent study on wine regions’ adaptive capacity, notes that “once you feel the effects of climate change, it is already very late, so action is needed now.”

In contrast to Europe’s slow-moving regulatory environment, New World wine regions like Australia are adapting more rapidly. The Limestone Coast Grape and Wine Council (LCGWC), representing six regional associations in South Australia, is close to securing significant funding to help growers build climate resilience. Much of this investment will go toward improved water management—a critical issue as droughts become more common.

Edward Cavanagh, executive officer of the LCGWC, explains that Australia adopted GIs mainly to meet European Union standards for export purposes. Unlike Europe, Australian GIs do not impose strict controls over grape varieties or winemaking styles. “No GI in Australia tries to exert that level of control,” Cavanagh says. “It would be seriously out of keeping with how we operate here.”

Some European regions are experimenting with adaptation within the constraints of their GI systems. In Alto Adige, Italy, vineyards currently range from 660 to 3,300 feet in elevation. As temperatures rise, some producers are planting vines at even higher altitudes—up to 3,770 feet—to maintain the region’s Alpine style. The local Laimburg Research Centre is conducting trials at these elevations and regularly reviews the upper limits for vineyard planting.

However, changing regulations in Europe is a slow process that requires consensus among growers and approval from authorities. This inertia can hinder timely adaptation. By comparison, Mendoza’s Luján de Cuyo region in Argentina has shown more flexibility. Over three decades, its DOC has gradually changed irrigation systems, vineyard management practices, and even expanded its boundaries to higher elevations—now up to 4,430 feet above sea level—to cope with water scarcity and rising temperatures.

Regions that rely on just one or a few grape varieties are particularly vulnerable to climate change. Tscholl’s research highlights that monovarietal areas like Barolo in Italy face greater risks because they lack flexibility to switch varieties as conditions change. Bureaucratic hurdles further complicate efforts to introduce new grapes.

To address these challenges without sacrificing regional identity, some French appellations have started experimental programs allowing limited trials of new grape varieties. Bordeaux approved six new varieties in 2021—a significant shift for a region known for tradition. In Germany, disease-resistant PIWI varieties are now permitted for Qualitätswein production and may help preserve rare styles like Eiswein despite warmer winters.

Florian Koch from the German Wine Institute points out that PIWI grapes offer frost tolerance and resilience against unpredictable weather—traits increasingly valuable as climate patterns shift.

Despite these pressures, GIs still provide economic benefits and reinforce cultural pride for many producers. However, experts argue that regions must balance tradition with adaptability if they want to survive environmental changes ahead. The future of wine appellations may depend on their ability to evolve while maintaining the qualities that make their wines unique.