2025-11-18
In the Willamette Valley of Oregon, winemakers are facing a new reality as climate change alters the region’s growing conditions. On October 26, Bree and Chad Stock, owners of Limited Addition Wines in Gaston, prepared for their “Come On Over October” event while pressing the last of their cabernet franc grapes. This year’s harvest ended weeks earlier than usual, a shift that Chad Stock described as “part of the new normal.” The valley’s vineyards, known for their pinot noir, have been forced to adapt to hotter, drier weather and unpredictable rainfall.
The 2025 growing season saw many vineyards harvesting earlier than ever before. Sparkling wine grapes, typically picked in September, were harvested in August. Other varieties followed quickly as triple-digit temperatures and sporadic rain challenged growers. Despite the shortened season, most wineries reported solid yields due to a warm and dry spring. However, the pattern of early harvests and extreme weather has become more common over the past five years.
A recent study titled "Temperature-Based Climate Projections of Pinot Noir Suitability in the Willamette Valley American Viticultural Area," co-authored by Brian Skahill and Bryan Berenguer, examined how rising temperatures are affecting pinot noir production. The study analyzed more than 70 years of weather data and found that average growing-season temperatures could rise by over 3 degrees Celsius by the end of the century. Grapes are already ripening about three days earlier each decade, with harvests now finishing up to three weeks sooner than in previous years.
Greg Jones, CEO of Abacela Vineyards and a vineyard climatologist, released his 2025 harvest report on November 4. He noted that this year was among the warmest on record for western U.S. wine regions. Growing degree days—a measure of accumulated heat—were 7% to 18% above the 1991–2020 averages across these areas. Jones said that most places were “extremely close to the warmest ever.”
The Willamette Valley has built its reputation on pinot noir since the 1960s, when pioneers like David Lett planted the first commercial vines at Eyrie Vineyards in Dundee. The region’s cool climate was once considered ideal for this delicate grape. Today, nearly 70% of all vines in the valley are pinot noir, according to the Willamette Valley Wineries Association.
But as temperatures rise, experts warn that pinot noir may no longer thrive as it once did. Skahill said it might be time for the Willamette Valley to stop branding itself as a “cool climate” region. He urged vineyard owners to consider replanting with varieties better suited to warmer conditions.
Some winemakers are already experimenting with new grapes. Bryan Berenguer, who co-authored the climate study and owns Human Cellars in Dundee, decided not to plant any pinot noir at all. Instead, he grows gamay, grüner veltliner, chenin blanc and lagrein—varieties that have performed well in recent years.
At Limited Addition Wines, Bree Stock is also focusing on alternative grapes such as cabernet franc. She believes cabernet franc is well-suited to the changing climate of the Willamette Valley. The grape ripens later and slower than pinot noir, allowing for balanced sugar and acid development even as summers grow hotter. Its looser clusters also help reduce damage from smoke or mold during wildfire season.
Bree Stock said cabernet franc could become a premium wine for Oregon, offering quality and complexity that appeals to both seasoned collectors and younger consumers. She noted that later ripening means lower sugar levels during peak fire season, reducing the risk of smoke taint—a problem that affected many vineyards during wildfires in 2020.
The heavy reliance on pinot noir has created a monoculture in the Willamette Valley. When conditions are ideal, high-quality pinot floods the market and drives down prices; when they are not, wineries struggle to sell lower-quality wines at premium prices. Chad Stock called this an “outdated model” and said it may be time for change.
Greg Jones encourages growers to diversify their vineyards as a way to manage risk and maintain consistency despite unpredictable weather. He pointed out that regions like Bordeaux grow several red grape varieties so that one can succeed if another struggles in a given year.
Marketing remains another challenge for Oregon’s wine industry. The state’s tourism campaigns continue to promote the Willamette Valley as a “Pinot Paradise,” but shifting this narrative could help attract new audiences interested in different styles of wine.
Industry leaders agree that change does not mean abandoning pinot noir altogether but rather embracing diversity and innovation. They see an opportunity for Oregon’s wine industry to rediscover its pioneering spirit by experimenting with new grape varieties and adapting to evolving conditions.
As older pinot noir vines planted decades ago near the end of their productive lives—and with diseases like red blotch threatening yields—growers face important decisions about what comes next for their vineyards. For many winemakers in Oregon’s star wine region, adapting to climate change means looking beyond tradition and planting grapes that will define the valley’s future.
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