Bordeaux wines maintain traditional taste with novel grape blends

A recent study has found that Bordeaux wines blended with novel grape varieties can maintain their traditional taste. This research explored using alternative grapes to help winemakers adapt to climate change while preserving the wines' regional character. Two professional juries evaluated different versions of a classic Bordeaux wine, each incorporating one of five non-traditional grape varieties. These included grapes from Southwest France, a crossbreed from the 1950s, and a Portuguese grape. The study, published in the OENO One journal, indicated that including these novel grapes in blends up to 30% did not significantly alter the wines' regional 'typicity.'

The researchers noted that while the classical reference blend was the most typical, the Bordeaux typicity was not drastically affected by the inclusion of new grapes. This research could pave the way for introducing these five non-native varieties into the classic Bordeaux blend. Currently, only specific grape varieties are allowed in commercial wines with appellation names. However, Bordeaux winemakers are experimenting with new grapes to adapt to climate change while maintaining the wines' character.

The study built on previous research that identified five non-Bordeaux varieties—Fer Servadou, Duras, Manseng Noir, Vinhão, and Arinarnoa—that taste similar to traditional Bordeaux grapes. These were blended into a classic Bordeaux wine at 10% and 30% proportions. The blend included Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. A panel of 37 professional judges tasted 11 wines, including a reference wine, followed by a second group of 20 judges with extensive Bordeaux experience. Tastings occurred at Château La Tour Carnet in St-Laurent-Médoc, which manages experimental grape plots.

The first panel found minimal change in Bordeaux typicity, except when Vinhão was included at 30%. The second jury noted that Fer Servadou and higher proportions of Manseng Noir or Vinhão decreased typicity. However, the study authors emphasized that these changes were minor. They suggested that these results could support the legal introduction of these grapes into the Bordeaux varietal mix. Arinarnoa was among six new grape varieties approved for experimental use in Bordeaux in 2021.