The intricate saga of Etna DOC: Wine from the volcano's edge

The Etna DOC, an ancient and vibrant Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) from Italy, blankets part of twenty municipalities that exist in the intriguing vicinity of Europe's highest active volcano, the Etna, situated north of Catania. Often termed as "an island within an island," the Etna region exudes unique climatic conditions and soil characteristics that differentiate it from the rest of Sicily. It's these distinct aspects that bestow the wines from Etna DOC their distinctive profiles.

The Etna DOC is one of Italy's oldest DOCs, revered as Sicily's first recognized DOC. To be classified under this denomination, the vineyards must be located within the province of Catania, specifically in the territories of twenty municipalities namely Biancavilia, S. Maria di Licodia, Paternò, Belpasso, Nicolosi, Pedara, Trecastagni, Viagrande, Aci S. Antonio, Acireale, S. Venerina, Giarre, Mascali, Zafferana, Milo, S. Alfio, Piedimonte, Linguaglossa, Castiglion, and Randazzo.

Peering Into the Past

The story of Etna DOC wine can be traced back to 729 BC during the Greek colonization of eastern Sicily. Archaeological remains suggest that viticulture existed even before the Greeks' era, possibly during the time of the Phoenicians. The Greeks pioneered the practices of pruning and grafting grape varieties from their homeland into the vineyards.

The Romans, following the Greeks, elevated the status of wine, making it one of the most cherished and significant products of their Empire. However, with the Arab domination in Sicily during the Middle Ages, wine production experienced a period of crisis. The Sicilian wine industry revived under the Bourbon reign, and the 18th century saw the birth of the vast Sicilian wine cellars.

Ever since, vineyards have been cultivated, and wine has been produced in the area, so much so that by the end of the 19th century, the province of Catania had become the most cultivated region in Sicily. The area's wine production was significantly high until the phylloxera epidemic hit.

In the wake of the phylloxera plague, new vineyards emerged, new enterprises sprouted, and professionalism in the industry soared. This led to the recognition of the region's wines at both national and international levels.

Indigenous Varieties of Etna DOC

The most notable indigenous white grape varieties of Etna DOC are Carricante, Catarratto, and Minnella. Among the red grapes, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio stand out.

Elevation and Wine Production

The majority of Etna DOC wines are produced at altitudes between 300 and 900 meters—these are the climatic conditions most suitable for winemaking. However, some regions also produce wine at heights reaching up to 1100 meters.

Etna: The Thousand-Faced Volcano

Etna is not only an active volcano but also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its fertile soil nurtures a diverse landscape, ranging from arid slopes to lush vegetation. A journey through Etna is an olfactory and visual feast of fragrances, colors, culture, and flavors, complemented by an unforgettable wine route.

A leisurely walk through the ancient vineyards and centuries-old chestnut trees reveals the perseverance and patience of the locals who, despite the volcano's destructive power, find the strength to endure and thrive.

The urban landscape of Etna is a cultural heritage, witnessed by lava stone churches, castles, towers, and old fortresses. The vineyards situated at 400 meters above sea level endure extreme conditions.

There is a dramatic temperature variation between day and night, with hot days that touch 30 degrees Celsius and cold nights. These vineyards also face erratic weather changes, including rain, snow, and hail.

The volcanic soil often gets covered with Etna's ash, but these conditions enrich the soil with minerals. The vineyards that produce these wines present a fascinating spectacle—they marry the hottest sun with the strongest wind, the most blooming vegetation with the most ruthless drought.

Indeed, a wine tourism route through the Etna DOC is a must for all wine lovers. Despite the hardships, the resilience of the vineyards and the people who tend them truly encapsulates the spirit of the Etna DOC—strength, endurance, and a capacity to turn adversity into advantage, producing wines that carry the distinctive imprint of their volcanic birthplace.