Counterfeit Prosecco Crisis in the UK

Prosecco, the most popular and internationally recognized sparkling wine from Italy, is facing a significant issue in one of its primary markets, the United Kingdom: the rise of imitations and, more concerningly, counterfeits. The difference between the two is that imitations are wines attempting to replicate the style of prosecco without being covered by the Controlled Designation of Origin (DOC) or even being Italian, while counterfeits are illegal wines falsely labeled as official DOC Prosecco.

Although this issue is spreading to other markets due to the growing popularity of prosecco, it is in the UK where it has become particularly serious. The popularity of prosecco has risen rapidly in the UK, leading to an increase in both counterfeits and the misuse of the name.

The Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC, the organization responsible for protecting and promoting this designation, has taken steps to address the problem. Prosecco can only be produced in two specific regions of northeastern Italy: Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Furthermore, the regulations specify that it must be sold exclusively in bottles, which excludes formats such as cans or pressure dispensers, which are becoming more common in London pubs and restaurants. These unauthorized presentations have become a concern for the Consorzio, which considers such practices a clear case of fraud that harms the reputation of the denomination.

The UK market is the second largest globally for prosecco consumption, surpassed only by the United States, with approximately 85.5 million bottles sold between September 2022 and September 2023. This highlights the scale of the business and the importance of protecting the product's authenticity in the country. In response, the Consorzio decided to launch an awareness campaign targeting British consumers. Rather than pursuing legal action, which tends to be lengthy and costly, the initiative aims to inform the public about what constitutes genuine prosecco.

The campaign, which began earlier this year, includes 880 posters distributed across London. These posters display the message "This is not Prosecco" alongside images of beer kegs or cans to clarify that these formats do not meet the denomination's requirements. According to Stefano Zanette, president of the Consorzio, it was essential to adopt a direct approach to prevent consumer confusion and ensure that the product they purchase is authentic.

The problem is not new, but its increasing frequency in such a key market has prompted the Consorzio to act. Prosecco enjoys great popularity in the UK, where it is favored for celebrations and everyday consumption, at times even preferred over French champagne. This demand has led some establishments to resort to deceptive practices to capitalize on the trend by offering a product that does not meet DOC standards and therefore cannot be considered prosecco.

The regulations for the prosecco denomination of origin were established in 2009, when a stricter system was implemented to protect the quality and authenticity of this sparkling wine. The requirements include not only the place of production but also the production method and final packaging, which is limited to the traditional glass bottle. However, the expansion of its consumption outside Italy has made it challenging to monitor compliance with these regulations in foreign markets. The flexibility of some distributors and venues in adapting the product to local preferences has resulted in improper uses that compromise the integrity of the designation.

In a context where pressure from other sparkling wine competitors, such as Spanish cava and French champagne, is constant, protecting the prosecco brand has become a strategic priority. The Consorzio decided that raising consumer awareness is a crucial first step before considering legal actions. With this campaign, the goal is to reduce the incidence of these fraudulent practices and reinforce the message that any wine presented as prosecco and not sold in a bottle is, by definition, a counterfeit.

The Consorzio's response has received support from other Italian and European wine organizations, which see this action as a model for protecting their own denominations of origin. Globalization and the growing demand for traditional European products have led to an environment where imitations are increasingly common. While producers can sometimes identify and report these practices through the appropriate authorities, sanctions are often insufficient to deter those who benefit from such irregularities.

In this context, the case of prosecco in the UK is not unique but is significant due to the size of the market and the popularity this beverage has achieved in recent years. The decision to use an informational campaign rather than legal action also shows the difficulty of combating these problems through traditional means. For consumers, the key is to know the distinctive characteristics of genuine prosecco and be wary of presentations that do not comply with Italian regulations.